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OilChrysler's original recommendation of the older 10W30 weight oil used previously in all Viper generations was revised in the early 2000's to Mobil 1’s newer 0W40 European Car Formula.  Most Viper shops and experts agree that it is a great oil to be used in all previous generation cars.  I’ve always been fond of Mobil 1’s 0W40 and used it in my old BMWs and even our Project NSX.  It’s also a popular oil weight that many E9X M3 owners are using in their S65 V8s, like Project E90 M3 instead of the very thick Castrol TWS 10W60.  With the filter, the Viper’s service manual states 8.5 quarts of oil are needed but it’s better to add 8 quarts and check the level after letting the car warm up and adjust accordingly.
Oil FilterOur Viper had the white Mopar “Viper” oil filter on it previously and that is what is universally recommended.  It’s a quality filter and the oil pressure bypass valve is set to the pressure that the Chrysler engineers specified for the V10.

Now that the oil was changed, we decided to tackle a few maintenance items.

 

The power steering reservoir is known to push fluid out through the hole in the top of the cap during hard use.  This has been the known cause of many fires that have burned Vipers to the ground.  A $26 solution from Roe Racing routes any fluid straight down and out of the path of the headers to prevent the fluid from catching fire.  This is highly recommended for any 1992-2002 Viper.
PS Vent Tube InstallThe power steering vent tube takes all of 5 seconds to install.  Squeeze the pinch clamps together, slide the hose on, and release the clamp to hold it in place.
Original WiresOur Viper had the original black Mopar wires which have noticeably more resistance than many aftermarket wires.  While they look great, spark plug wires break down over time and should be replaced periodically, preferably before they reach 18 years of age like ours had.
ShroudThe first step when removing the plug wires is to remove the front shroud to get to the rear coil packs.  First pop off the wiper arm covers then unbolt the 12mm nut.  It’s a good idea to use a sharpie or paint pen to mark the orientation of the arms so they go back on the same. Since the windshield washer jets are on the arm itself, leave these connected and once the arms are out of the way, unscrew the 6 phillips head screws that hold on the shroud.
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Comments
spdracerut
spdracerutlink
Thursday, February 26, 2015 7:15 AM
Great stuff Billy! I never knew about that add-a-circuit thing nor the coolant tester. Very odd about the vacuum actuated vents... Nice that a simple one-way check valve does the trick. Cool about the radiator cap too. All kinds of informative things :)
Burninator
Burninatorlink
Thursday, February 26, 2015 9:29 AM
That sacrificial anode on the radiator cap is really neat. Is there something specific about the Viper that makes this a good upgrade? Or would that be a good thing for any car?
BillyJ
BillyJlink
Thursday, February 26, 2015 12:55 PM
There are a lot of vipers with corrosion issues and the Anode's purpose will be beneficial in the Viper, but it's specifically limited to that car. I've seen many cars run them but it also depends on the year/make/model of your car and if there's a known issue or not.

If the cap PSI is the same, I don't see how it would not be beneficial in any car.
Van_1986
Van_1986link
Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:22 PM
Nice tips in here, gonna grab one of those add-a-circuits to wire in my gauges for sure. Also I think the sacrificial anode would be a great help in the rotary community where there is alternating aluminum and steel plates in the engine, high water temps, and water seals extremely close to the combustion chamber.
Anonymous User
Anonymous Userlink
Monday, May 11, 2015 10:51 PM
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