Page Options
You are here : Magazine Articles
  Minimize
15
koyo radiator
Koyo's racing radiator is not overkill on the hot running SR20DE engine.  The Koyo unit is more than twice as thick as the stock Nissan part.

Koyo Aluminum Racing Radiator

After installing a new engine, the first thing on the shopping list was a new radiator. The Koyo aluminum racing radiator is one of the best selling – if not the best selling aftermarket performance radiators out there. I heard good reviews on the radiator, and when I installed it, I was absolutely impressed. Unlike most other conventional aftermarket parts, the radiator bolted in as though it were OEM. Not really a surprise I suppose, since Koyo is a large manufacturer of OE radiators as well.

Made from aircraft quality aluminum and Heli-arc welded with an epoxy free core, all Koyo radiators are manufactured in Japan, then imported to the states. Koyo racing radiators are more than twice as thick as the stock SE-R radiators, at 53 mm, where your average B13 radiators are about 24 mm in width, and for the final bling factor, it didn't hurt that the end tanks were polished to a mirror finish.

I'd regurgitate the claim from Koyo, which stated that, their racing radiators provided 20%-30% more cooling than standard radiators, but instead I'll tell you about my own personal experience with these radiators a bit later; I really think that the overall amount of cooling improvement is actually much more than this.

Unorthodox pulleys slow down the water pump to the point where it will not cavitate.  This is important for keeping the engine cool as the Nissan pump caviates at 6500 rpm.  When the pump cavitates, the water flow drops to zero.

Unorthodox Underdrive Pulleys

Next on the list were a new set of underdrive pulleys. Unorthodox has always been a friendly supporter of SE-R's, so I opted for them. It didn't hurt that their pulleys came in a choice of anodized red, blue, black, and natural polished aluminum. More bling factor.

The most important thing about the pulleys is that they greatly reduced water pump cavitation. Cava- what? Cavitation cav•i•ta•tion  n. is localized boiling of the coolant caused by a low-pressure zone created in the vicinity of the pumps impeller (thank you, engineering dictionary). The SR's not so efficient impeller design causes a lot of turbulence in the coolant. The turbulent areas have lower pressure which gets below the vapor pressure of the water-coolant mixture. The fluid flash boils and the pump impeller basically churns a bunch of bubbles. This causes water flow to the engine to stop.

Water pump cavitation is a severe problem with SR20 motors, so bad that the pulleys are necessary for extensive full throttle use.  An SR20's water pump starts to cavitate at 6500 rpm with the water flow dropping off to zero at 7100 rpm.  Obviously, you can see how this results to inefficient cooling problems. How do the U/R pulleys solve this problem? By slowing the water pump impeller enough to where cavitation is eliminated and coolant flow is maintained, even at high rpm.  This alone is enough reason as to why these pulleys should be mandatory for track use.

Another perk of these pulleys are that they also reduce rotating mass from the crank. Underdriving the accessories such as the power steering, alternator and water pump reduces frictional drag, increases the life of these parts at racing speed and frees up about 4 to 6 ponies at the wheels. They also weigh considerably less than the stock pulleys, a crucial detail when trying to build a competitive race car. Needless to say, I was very satisfied with this upgrade as well.

Pages: 2 of 4 Previous Page Next Page

Comments

Jim
# Jim
Thursday, October 22, 2009 5:37 PM
I really like your articles. I use to have cooling problems in the middle of the summer with my turbo, front mount, four cylinder, with the AC blasting. I could never keep the temp gauge from raising on those very hot LA days. I decided to switch to Evans Cooling coolant. I use the NPG+ because it's a daily driver. It's been good so far. My temp gauge still raises a bit but now it stops where as before it would just keep going up. It's a waterless system and has a boiling point of 375-F, is non toxic, non corrosive, and supposed to last 100,000 miles. I had to do some conversion to make my cooling system into a zero pressure one, but they say you can just change it out now. Maybe it's because my car is older. They have different set ups so I would still make sure what is entailed before I make the decision to switch. I paid about 45 dollars a gallon last time. I had to re-flush my entire system because I forgot to tell the guy fixing my AC and he poured water and coolant into it. I guess he thought the warning sticker was just for show.

So I don't really worry about my coolant boiling anymore. But what I'd like to know is how much temperature can an engine take before it becomes harmful. I mean if my boiling point is at 375F, then does that mean that I can safely run at 325F all day without any damage or severe drop in performance? I hope this question doesn't sound stupid but I just don't know.

Look into it if you're interested. I'll make it to the track one of these days.
http://www.evanscooling.com/

Off their FAQ:
What are various boiling points of interest?
Water at sea level (1 atm. absolute) boils at 212° F.
Water at sea level with a 1 atm. pressure cap (2 atm total) boils at 250° F.
EGW at sea level (1 atm. absolute) boils at 224° F.
EGW at sea level with a 1 atm. pressure cap (2 atm. total) boils at 263° F.
Evans Waterless HDTC at sea level (1 atm. absolute) boils at 375° F.
Jim
# Jim
Friday, October 23, 2009 12:07 AM
I wouldn't recommend Evan's coolant, for a car you plan to use outside your acceptable towing area, if you have converted it to a system which only allows you to use Evan's. Because I have converted my car to a zero pressure system, I can no long use the normal coolant/water mixtures, which mean I have to tow if anything happens.
Topdog781
# Topdog781
Friday, October 23, 2009 1:27 AM
What no addition of (Water Better)......you know what I mean.......Wow guess that stuff does not work after all.........I thought so.....I just don't have the tools to prove it......
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Thursday, October 29, 2009 7:22 PM
I used Evans coolant in the Dog III time attack car and it seems to work well.

Water wetter does work but for NASA road racing you cannot use coolant, only water. Less slick in an accident. You will fail tech for having anything but water.
Jim
# Jim
Friday, October 30, 2009 6:34 PM
Mike

Could you answer this question for me? How high of a temperature can an engine still safely operate at before it becomes harmful? I mean if Evan's boiling point is at 375F, then does that mean that I can safely run at 350F all day without any damage or drop in performance?

What other organizations are there, besides NASA, that also do not allow coolant?

Thanks
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Friday, October 30, 2009 8:58 PM
Thats a hard question to answer in general terms because a lot has to do where you measure the temperature.

For instance on an SR20 with the sender in the stock location, they blow up around 250 degrees and start to get unhappy at around 230. If the sender is in the front return water neck, its about 245 and 265.

We had the LS motors in the drift cars hit 260 degrees without harm before. The localized temps are much higher but its hard to gather data on them. In general I would say something like 230 degrees coolant and 260 degrees oil is where things start to happen in a typical motor.

SCCA doesnt allow coolent.

Post Comment

Only registered users may post comments.

          MotoIQ Proudly Presents Our Partners:


Copyright 2012 by MotoIQ.com
Privacy StatementTerms Of UseAdvertise