|
|
Dave Coleman posted on July 18, 2009 15:26
 |
|
Ok, now that you get the basic idea, here's the step-by-step on how to do it: First, unthread the clamp mount from the bottom of the strut tube. Then, with a very thin 9mm wrench, remove the adjuster.
|
| |
|
The actual adjuster inside the JIC damper is accessed via an Allen-head. The knob on the bottom of the strut is, in reality, just a fancy Allen wrench with some detents to make clicks you fan feel. Put this aside, you'll obviously be putting it back in later.
|
 |
|
 |
|
Next, remove the big, 22mm nut holding the damper to the strut tube. (Obviously, this picture was taken on an earlier, exploratory teardown before I figured out the right way to do things.)
|
 |
|
On the backside of the strut tube, this oval-shaped recess matches up with two flats machined into the end of the shock rod.
|
 |
|
These flats hold the rod so you don't have to worry about it spinning as you turn the wrench.
|
 |
|
Now, repairing the damaged damper body. The burnished spot is clearly visible, as are chatter marks where the under-lubricated bushings were apparently sticking and slipping. I should have noticed this long before it got this bad.
|
 |
|
If you have access to a lathe, spin the strut while polishing the shaft with red Scotchbrite lubricated with a little water or WD40. If you don't have a lathe, you can also use a drill press and grab the top of the strut in the drill chuck, just be careful not to damage the threads.
|
 |
After a thorough polishing, most of the damage was gone, with the exception of some minor pitting and a slightly dark spot where the burnishing had been. If you properly stroked the shaft while the late was spinning (remain calm.) you sould end up wit The crosshatched finish should help retain lubrication in the future.
|
 |
The bump stops on inverted struts are hidden inside the strut tube, so it wasn't until I tore them down that I finally saw how long they were. Too long. That's one more reason to tear down and re-lube before you install new JICs. You can also trim the bump stops while you're in there.
|
 |
To lube the strut, we went to the local motocross shop and got the same Bel-Ray waterproof grease used to lube motocross forks.
|
 |
After cleaning out all the old grease and crud, I liberally applied grease to the new bushings. Most of this grease will get shoved into the bottom of the tube when the strut body is inserted.
|
 |
A little grease on the strut body helps ensure something slippery gets dragged in when the grease in the tube gets pushed out.
|
 |
Before reinstalling the grease seal dig it out of its holder and clean it thoroughly.
|
|
Just before you install the grease seal, smear a thin layer of grease on the strut tube. As the seal scrapes the grease off the tube, it will trap some grease between the seal and the upper bushing, helping keep it lubricated as the strut moves.
After this, just put the car back together and keep an eye out for wear next time.
|
 |
| Go back to the main story-> |
 |
Pages: 2 of 2 Previous Page
Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:42 PM
Would this work for any Monotube strut? I wish I had known this before I sold my JIC struts; when I emailed JIC about maintenance, they said that their struts were not maintainable.
Sunday, July 19, 2009 5:05 PM
This will work on any inverted monotube, but the details of how to get the bottom nut off will vary by manufacturer. Bilstein, for example, usually threads the shaft into the bottom of the housing, and the nut you see on the bottom is really just a jam nut. DMS has a tapered seat on the bottom of the shaft that's supposed to keep it from spinning as you loosen the nut, but in practice it doesn't always work. I've seen many people get stuck after dirty threads (no surprise on a rally strut) caused the nut to jam on the shaft just as the tapered seat loosed up enough to stop holding the shaft still. Dumb design...
Wednesday, August 05, 2009 6:36 AM
Hey Coleman, I remember reading up on you working on a Koni/Ground Control coilover setup for a different S13. Did you ever get that to work because I'm trying to find a cheap but functionl setup for my own S13. Would Ground Control be a good match for KYB struts (which are already on my car)?
Wednesday, August 05, 2009 9:48 AM
Davio, That suspension, and an alternate version (just using different Koni part numbers) is being discussed in the motoiq projects section of the forums. Try here: http://www.motoiq.com/Forum/tabid/63/afv/topic/aff/75/aft/93/afpg/1/Default.aspxI have my doubts about your KYBs, but it really depends on what spring rates you use. If you keep them pretty soft, you might be able to get away with it.
Monday, February 22, 2010 6:26 PM
They don't sell parts for their struts, but could you have sent it in to JIC for repair?
Thursday, June 10, 2010 10:16 AM
If I installed Koni yellows in OEM struts tubes, should I have lubed the inside of those strut tubes> I don't think they would move as they are bolted through at the bottom, but I am not so sure after looking at these pictures.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010 9:06 PM
Putting grease in the oe strut tube when inserting Koni drop-ins will help keep moisture and rust to a minimum in this area.
 
|
|
MotoIQ Proudly Presents Our Partners:
|