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One downside to going with the DS3000 pads up front and keeping the StopTech street pads on the rear was that it shifted the brake bias forward.  This would result in longer braking distances and also affect turn-in during trail braking.  The upside was that it should reduce the work load on the rear brakes, and that’s a good thing with the street pads on the rear.

Project Honda S2000
We changed our brake pads, added a 3mm wheel spacer and some ghetto brake ducts.

Though the DS3000 pads are considered track-only, they are actually quite useable on the street.  They take two to three stops to get some heat into them for normal operation, but otherwise, they don’t squeal at all.  The downside to using these on the street is the accelerated rotor wear; you can hear these pads clamp down on the rotors as they make a slight noise like using some very fine grit sand paper to sand the rotors.

As we recently installed the brakes and did a fluid flush, there was no need to bleed or flush the brake fluid again.  We were not happy with the wheel-to-caliper clearance, so we added a 3mm spacer to the front wheels.  To add some more reliability to the brakes for track use, we made some creative cooling for the fronts.  We bought 10’ of 2” diameter, 350 degree neoprene ducting for about $45 and used about 5’ of it to direct air to the front brakes. 

To complete the transformation from street car to track car, we adjusted the suspension and tire pressures.  We settled on the following for a street setting:

Front:
Rebound: 7 clicks from full stiff (out of 18)
Compression: 0.50 turns from full stiff (out of 2.0)

Rear:
Rebound: 10 clicks from full stiff
Compression: 0.75 turns from full stiff

The rebound damping can be a little lacking when a hump is hit on the freeway (a few of those on the 405 here in LA), but otherwise the car is well composed and soaks up all the crap the roads here throw at it.  Yes, it does ride better than stock!  For the track however, we added 4 clicks of rebound damping to both the front and rear resulting in 3 and 6 clicks from full stiff respectively.  We left the compression alone.  For the tire pressure, we started at 36 cold on all four.

Edit: After about ten thousand miles of driving, I now have the front rebound at 6 clicks and the rear rebound at 8 clicks for street use.  I add 3 clicks front and rear for track use.

 

Projec Hondat S2000
The 3mm spacers got us some improvement in spoke to caliper clearance.

 

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Comments

JDMized
# JDMized
Friday, August 13, 2010 1:21 AM
Great progress.
Robert Walker (www.maxrev.net) has TONS of data regarding the S2000, tires and suspension setup. It might be worth it look onto his site.
Dusty Duster
# Dusty Duster
Friday, August 13, 2010 5:30 AM
Holy cow, those are some high temperatures. The temp gauges I have in my vehicles don't even *go* that high.

Running 50-weight oil like you were doing helps keep the oil pressure nominal, but I really think you need to get those oil temps down. Maybe replace or augment the stock oil cooler?

For the water temperature, have you tried using Reline Water Wetter? You might also want to take a look around the radiator to make sure that no air can bypass it. If you need to seal the radiator better to improve airflow through it, you can either use sheet metal or some semi-rigid rubber sheets. If all else fails, you might have to upgrade to a bigger radiator.
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Friday, August 13, 2010 6:46 AM
Hey Dusty! Already planned on replacing the stock oil cooler, but I wanted some baseline numbers. And as I knew they run hot from researching, I put in the higher weight oil just for the track. Now I personally know how hot they run.

For coolant, read the last paragraph :) I actually did a radiator swap at the track. There is a lot of room for improvement on the sealing of the radiator and it will be very easy to do; so look for that later.

Honestly, I planned out this build over a year ago and it's going almost exactly to plan. Only about halfway there! It does get quite a bit more complicated from here... more alternative options for each step to consider.
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Friday, August 13, 2010 9:22 AM
@JDMized. I researched his site pretty throughly a year ago when i was planning this build. His site is how I came about my wheel and tire sizing.
Steve
# Steve
Monday, August 16, 2010 10:30 AM
Yeah the Koyo + Water Wetter pretty much cured any hot issues with my SE-R. UR UD Pulley on my Water pump too. Since it's NA and relatively low-power, may or may not add an oil cooler - the temps I see on 90 deg F ambient just don't warrant it, but you never know...nice writeup!
Rockwood
# Rockwood
Thursday, August 19, 2010 3:23 AM
Lap times?
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Thursday, August 19, 2010 11:40 AM
In the 2:10-2:15 range which is right what I guessed i would run. I'm measuring lap times based on a GoPro Hero camera that was set in 'picture every 2 seconds' mode, which is actually more like every 2.5 seconds. So not super accurate. I borrowed it from a friend and didn't read the instructions first.... and the default mode was the picture mode. Opps.

That's about 5 seconds faster than I ran in my Evo with 100whp more, but that was my frist time on the track when I took the Evo out. I'd say there was another ~5 seconds in the S2k; there are a couple spots that I could've pushed harder and one spot where I need to figure out a better line. Saw peak speeds of about 102-103mph. I'm not sure how many clean laps I got, I spent a lot of time looking in the mirrors for ACR Vipers, Porsche GT3s, 911 turbos, and some other dedicated Porsche track cars. There was one other S2k in my group that was a couple seconds a lap faster; he was semi-gutted (soft top and mechanism removed from what I remember, maybe some other interior stuff) with a hard top and rear wing. He was on some type of street tire from what I recall.
Ryuken
# Ryuken
Monday, October 18, 2010 9:44 AM
Where can I find 3mm spacers with built-in studs like the ones you guys are using? Thanks in advance!

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