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Once we had our front housings ready to go we needed to prep the inserts themselves. What we did is not required, however in the interests of a sano setup we deemed them necessary. The top most portion of the housing of the Koni insert has a larger diameter than the coilover sleeve and as such the sleeve would not slide over the top of the damper. This would mean that we would have to assemble the sleeve to the housing before we put our insert in place and frankly that was no good for us. We chose to machine down the top of the strut to allow the coilover sleeve to slide over it.

 


We turned the strut top down so the koni sleeve would slide over it.

 

While we were machining things we came up with a brilliant idea. Koni provides an OEM style spring perch for the rear dampers, because they had the correct inner diameter to slide over the factory housing we simply machined them down to accommodate the coilover sleeves. The sleeves themselves have a machined step inside of them and we machined our perches to match the step. Frankly we wanted to have the smallest overall outer diameter possible to increase tire clearance.

 

The Koni supplied rear spring perches were machined in to our new front perches

 

 Once we had our perches machined it came time to weld them in place of the factory spring perches. We wrapped masking tape around the housing to hold the Koni sleeve firmly in place, this allowed us to ensure the perch was level and in the right location for welding.

 

The stepped diameter on the perch mates with the inside of the Koni sleeve. This helps to center and support the sleeve.

 

 With the front housings all prepped it was time to check out the rear setup. In the B14 and B15 chassis Nissan applications, Koni offers a bolt in replacement for the rear dampers. The Koni sport rear's use a circlip on the shock itself that holds either the slip on OEM style perch or the Koni coilover sleeve. In this case we used the Koni sleeve; as it is a universal length we put it on the band saw to trim it to length and then machined it smooth so our perches would thread on easily.

 

The Koni sleeves are too long for the rear shocks, we trimmed ours on a band saw and cleaned them up in the lathe.

 

With all of the modification and prep work done it was time to address cosmetics. We had the front housings sandblasted and then powdercoated flat black. We wanted them to look as good as they performed and they came back looking like new. I get a little geeky when I see a part that previously looked like a rusty piece of junkyard scrap come back looking better than new....

 

I'm a sucker for clean parts. Hard to believe these are the same rusty housings we started with...

 


 

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Comments

JustinP10
# JustinP10
Monday, June 21, 2010 11:16 PM
Your car must be quite a bit lower than mine? I have the same bumpsteer kit and I found that the tie rod end flat on the top of the spindle provided the best correction. Mounting the tie rods to the underside of the spindle overcorrected the bumpsteer at my ride height.

Nice write up!
nissannx
# nissannx
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 1:02 AM
Wes, great write up as always. I didn't realize that Bolt in Bars made this product. Can you supply more information - specifically, will it also fit B13s?

As you know, when I did my budget rebuild I went back to KYB AGXs. This is inspiring me to consider what's next. Thank you.
JustinP10
# JustinP10
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 9:11 AM
Yes, it'll fit a B13 as well.
ash
# ash
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 9:28 AM
any idea if the bumpsteer kit would work on b15's?
jere
# jere
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 10:49 AM
Nice work what was the final bill on the finished Koni setup?
GCMBob
# GCMBob
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 12:01 PM
a little trick i did when depressurizing the shocks i did, was to drill through a Gatorade cap and leave it on the bit, then drill through the shock. This way you can see what you are doing and it doesn't spray oil all over you when you break through.
chuck
# chuck
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 6:07 PM
the car looks awesome. i'd bet now it handles awesome as well. hit me up for a rear strut tower bar to test.

thanks for including my stuff in your write up.

bolt in bars
e-mail - octotat@aol.com
phone - 602-332-2825

-chuck
Wes Dumalski
# Wes Dumalski
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 6:38 PM
I don't believe the bump steer kit will work on a B15 as in my cross reference the B13/14 use the same tie rod end, the B15 has a different part #. Not sure of the differences, cold be length, thread size and pitch, or even the taper on the spindle....
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 9:28 PM
Nice work on the machining Wes! I wish I had easy access to a machine shop.... we have equipment at work, but I'm not allowed to use the stuff :(
chuck
# chuck
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 11:38 PM
checker shows the same p# for 1986-2006 sentras
Steve
# Steve
Wednesday, June 23, 2010 5:02 AM
GREAT article Wes, really nicely done. I hear other people comment about sorting out the angle on the Progress front bar, but IDK if that's a B14 thing only or what? On the B13 there is plenty of room and I can easily use any of the table holes I think except maybe full soft - which I wouldn't use - it just puts the end link at an angle I don't like, but otherwise doesn't have any issues. I regularly adjust both my front and rear Progress Bars at the track depending on conditions, i.e. cold+wet vs. dry usually. Again, nice job!
urbanjacup
# urbanjacup
Thursday, June 24, 2010 8:38 AM
great job Wes, enjoying the updates!
Wes Dumalski
# Wes Dumalski
Thursday, June 24, 2010 8:31 PM
Khiem,
I wish I had easier access. Sucks you have access and can't use it!

Steve,
Are you checking the clearance at full droop lock to lock? When loaded there is a TON of room but at full droop I can only run the bar at full stiff right now otherwise it hits. On the B14 I think full soft provides the best angle for the end links.

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