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Mike Kojima posted on April 28, 2010 14:30 
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| These stainless steel abutments prevent the steel brake pad backing plates from digging into the softer aluminum caliper body. This makes for smoother action and a more consistent pedal. It also protects the caliper body. |
We used the Sport Trophy STR calipers which have a few extra features over the race only versions. To keep the STR calipers streetable, they are equipped with piston dust boots to protect the seals from brake dust. Normally race calipers don't have dust boots because they usually end up getting oxidized and hardened from heat and race calipers are maintained frequently. Unfortunately street calipers are usually not maintained as well and corrosive brake dust, dirt and debris often get to where they can abrade the seals and corrode the pistons on a racing caliper causing leaks. The Sport Trophy calipers also have OEM like anti rattle hardware to help reduce pad rattling and brake squeaking.
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| The black bolt in part is the bridge which makes the Stoptech caliper very stiff. The silver clips are the anti rattle clips. The hollowed out areas are the CNC machined lightening zones that STR calipers receive. |
The Trophy kit comes with two piece Stoptech Aerorotors. These rotors have a proprietary low turbulence vane design which greatly improves airflow throughout the rotor for better cooling. The vanes are staggered at the inner diameter entrance for more air intake and are airfoil shaped in profile. In benchmark testing of the Aerorotor, it had the best airflow of any rotor on the market. The Aerorotors are also directional so you don’t have reversed vanes on one side of the car like many other rotors. Better rotor cooling leads to longer life, less fade and more resistance to warping.
The stock rotors are pillar vaned where the rotors have a bunch of internal pillars rather than smooth passages. Pillar vanes are good for dimensional stability on a street car so the rotor won't develop juddering as easily, but don't cool as well as the Stoptech aero vanes.
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| The Stoptech rotor is quite a bit lighter than the stock piece due to a larger hat, the annulus of the rotor is narrower so there is less heavy iron and more lightweight aluminum. |
We also decided to get the full floating option for our rotors. This allows the rotors to have about 0.012” of free play between the rotor's hard anodized alloy hat and the rotor itself. Full floating rotors have a few advantages over rigidly bolting the rotor to the hat. The first advantage is less coning of the rotor due to heat expansion. This is because the rotor is bolted to the hat only on one edge, as the rotor expands it expands less on the side that is bolted to the flange as the flange acts like a heat sink. Because of the difference in expansion due to the difference in temperature, the rotor distorts so it is shaped like cone. This creates odd wear and a softer pedal. It also increases thermal stress on the rotor and hat which is exaggerated by applying the brakes, due to the caliper's clamping and straightening action. Floating the rotors also make the rotor less likely to knock the caliper's pistons back in under cornering loads due to flex in the spindle and hub bearing system. This piston knockback can suddenly cause a low pedal and is a bad problem for many brake systems under conditions of hard driving.
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| The rear rotor is a lot lighter than the stock rear part, mostly because the hard anodized alloy hat also serves as the parking brake drum. Although this is very light, don't use the parking brake for drifting if you want it to last very long. Who drifits an EVO anyway? |
Stoptech floats the rotors using a special shoulder bolt which allows the rotors to move on the hats even when fully tight. A heat resistant inconel cone spring washer allows freeplay but has enough preload to reduce rattling, the fully floating rotors only real disadvantage. Our kit comes with a 355x32mm or 14” front rotor and a 345x28mm rear rotor.
Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:49 AM
If those original EVO brakes need a happy new home, I would happily put the entire set on my 4G63 powered Mightymax truck. 13 inch rotors and Brembos would look outstanding on it! ;)
Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:28 AM
I swear by StopTech. They were very helpful last year when I was designing the brake system for my school's FSAE car. It's too bad they don't make SAE sized brake hardware, or we would switch to them from Wilwood. Is the NT-05 a runflat? It sounds like with all that side rubber it would support itself nicely on its sidewall. It also sounds like with that low aspect ratio, those tires were a bitch to mount. Or does the soft rubber compound prevent all that?
Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:01 PM
Wow, pretty sweet. I'm impressed you guys got bigger brakes for less weight! I always thought that was a big detriment of big brake kits, along with the poorer-than-stock performance. Also where do you get those FEA images of your wheels? For almost every project car that gets new wheels it seems like you guys have one but I haven't been able to find them on various manufacturers' sites. Unless all your project cars get the same wheels and you're just reusing one image.... =P
Thursday, April 29, 2010 4:54 PM
About the pads, I thought that more surface area didn't really affect stopping ability in relationship with the amount of pressure applied, but more about pad wear. My thinking was that big brake kits gave you more of a lever to give you more torque for the same amount of force applied, along with increased heat capacity.
Thursday, April 29, 2010 5:14 PM
I just happen to use the same FEA image in all the articles, look close, its a RE30 not a CE28N. The NT05 is not a run flat, the sidewall tricks are for better response and to hold the tread flatter under load. Pad area makes a huge difference in brake performance. You are correct about the big rotors giving more of a torque moment and incresed heat capacity.

Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:13 PM
Big pads vs small pads: friction force is equal to coefficient of friction X area of pad X pressure. General equation relating pressure to area is: force = pressure X area. Say a pressure of 50 lbs per square inch, pad area of 5 square inches = 250lbs of force right? Doing a quick units check, lbs/in^2 X in^2 = lbs. Yup, checks out. It's late... have to make sure my brain still works :) So what I'm getting to, with a bigger pad, you can use less pressure to get the same friction force. This should let you use a less aggressive pad I think. Couple things with the bigger rotor: torque = force x distance. You want to apply torque to the wheel (through the brakes) to stop right? Well, with the larger diameter rotor, it just increased 'distance' increasing your moment arm/torque arm. So to get the same torque, you need less force as compared to the smaller diameter rotor. So compared to a small rotor/small pad setup, the new big rotor/big pad setup requires a lot less pressure between the pad and rotor to get the same braking torque. Also, big rotor equals more surface area for faster cooling.
Friday, April 30, 2010 7:39 AM
At the bottom of page 2 it says the rotor size for front and back are both 355x32mm. Is that correct?
Friday, April 30, 2010 10:16 AM
How big is the weight differance between the stoptechs vs stock?
Friday, April 30, 2010 10:57 AM
Dude read the article!, Ben, Yes both rotors are 355mm.
Tuesday, May 04, 2010 12:32 PM
Ben, My mistake the rear rotors are 345mm
Tuesday, May 04, 2010 1:38 PM
Did my previous comment get deleted? I think those are all very valid points and observations. I've been a fan of Mike Kojima's writing for a long time. I was just offering an opinion to make it better, and more informative to people interested in BRAKES, but maybe not StopTech.
Tuesday, May 04, 2010 2:28 PM
I am deleting your comments, check your PM. I believe you are an employee of a competitor to Stoptech and your comments are not unbiased or appropriate. I also deleted some detailed counterpoints to your post made by some of our readers as I do not wish this to deteriorate into a flame war. I am open to discuss this matter with you privately. Again see your PM. I can verify your identify by tracking so it would help to be straight with me. If you don't stop reposting the same stuff without discussing it with me I will delete your account. Stoptech is not a MotoIQ advertiser and our opinion is based on the fact that every Stoptech system we have had track experience with has worked flawlessly with a high degree of performance and the information that we are supplied with from Stoptech.
Saturday, May 08, 2010 7:12 PM
Question related to the wheels. I have an EVO X and have aftermarket wheels with a 20 offset. I noticed yours have a 22. My feeling is that steering feels is lost by going away from the stock (I forget but think it's 40 ish at least on the GSR) offset. Do you have some thoughts on this. My thinking is if I went to forged wheels ( I have cast Work wheels) in the future to try to get closer to a stock offset. Also, I didn't catch the weight of the Volks vs stocks (assuming this had the BBS). I assume it's not that much different. Thanks much.
Monday, May 10, 2010 11:29 AM
Well remember that the wheels are wider as well. Generally the more the centerline is offset from the Dave point, the more feedback you well get through the wheel.
 
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