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Mike Kojima posted on March 15, 2010 19:17 
The V3’s have a large adjusting range which is very handy for the serious grassroots suspension tuner. A big range of adjustment means that a big range of spring rates can be used without having to revalve the shocks. The KW’s adjusters also have consistent discreet adjusting increments which are consistent throughout the range. Most adjustable shocks, especially the lower cost ones, do not have consistency in the adjustments. The damping force adjusting increments varies greatly from click to click and the adjustment range is small.
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| In compression most of the damping control is handled by the foot valve so the valving in the piston mostly acts like a one way check valve with some damping control across the board at all speeds. |
The V3’s damping curve can be tailored from mildly digressive to heavily digressive. A digressive damping curve means that there is more damping at low piston speeds. At higher piston velocities, the two stage valving blows open bypassing fluid to where there is less overall damping. Digressive curves give good body platform control while still allowing a decent ride and minimizing traction reducing tire shock and hop.
A really cool feature that the Subaru V3’s have is the remote accumulator. The accumulator is like a remote reservoir found in some super high end race shocks. On the V3 this accumulator is a canister with a rubber bladder that is pressurized with nitrogen gas. Oil from the outer tube can flow back and forth from the outer tube to the accumulator. The bladder inside the accumulator gives the fluid displaced by the volume of the shock shaft as it goes in and out of the shock body a place to go. The rubber flexes and the gas compresses giving the incompressible fluid room, preventing the shock from getting hydraulic lock.
Typically, a twin tube shock simply has a volume of air or gas in the outer tube at the top of the fluid to allow for shaft displacement. This works ok, but under hard use the air can get mixed with the fluid and the frothy mix has less damping than non-emulsified fluid. This mixing of air and oil is the primary cause of shock fade in hard use. Another disadvantage of a standard twin tube is that usually only a low gas pressure can be used if the shock is indeed gas pressurized. Pressurization is good because it reduces fluid cavitation through the valves at high piston speeds. Cavitation is localized boiling in low pressure zones like the backside of shock valves. Cavitation also causes the fluid to foam and lose damping ability. The V3’s accumulator and rubber bladder prevent the gas and fluid from mixing. The bladder is pressurized to about 60 psi with nitrogen gas to reduce cavitation of the fluid.
KW addresses some of the issues that coilovers usually have on street cars. Many times the threaded body of the shock corrodes as it’s hard to keep cut threads from rusting, especially where the spring collars are turned on the threads even with rust resisting platings and coatings. Typically the spring seat is made of a different metal than the shock body. This causes galvanic corrosion. The shocks on a street car are exposed to the elements and receive very little maintenance. These issues cause the threaded body to corrode to the spring seat making a frozen mess. KW addresses this issue by using stainless steel for the shock body coated with their proprietary Inox coating. The spring seat is made of a corrosion proof engineering super plastic. This makes for a coilover body that that is always silky smooth in adjustment and will never corrode, even in salty east coast winters!
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| The low speed compression damping adjustment is mostly handled by the foot valve. The low speed fluid flow is shown in green. When the adjusting knob is turned, the spring preload on the needle valve controlling low speed fluid flow is increased, this increases the initial force needed to open the valve. When high speed flow needs to be controlled, like when hitting a big bump, the much larger compression blow off valve opens, its fluid flow is shown in blue. This allows the shock to react and absorb the impact. Thus you can have both good control via external adjustability and decent ride. |
The front KW struts have an eccentric on the upper strut to spindle bolt making the camber adjustable in a wider range than when just using a camber plate alone. The main springs are also paired with helper springs to keep tension on the main springs even when the suspension is at full droop. This helps keep the springs quiet and prevents the possibility of the spring coming out of place in hard track driving. Another cool feature of these dampers is that the damper body is shortened so the car can be lowered without losing bump travel. This is a highly important feature allowing a low car that will still stay off the bumpstops in a corner while maintaining reasonable spring rates. Bottoming under roll when cornering is the #1 cause of ill handling in modified cars so its critical not to give up bump travel in a lowered car. We adjusted our STi 1.2” lower in the front and ¾” lower in the rear for now. The dampers feature modular construction and can be taken apart for rebuilding or revalving if so desired.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 12:42 AM
Sweet article guys, one of the best yet! I know that you're California based but do you think that this suspension could be 4 season capable? In the winter I would mount a set of snow tires on the stock wheels of course but could I otherwise leave things in place or would I be better off mounting the OEM shocks/springs/bars for a more benign winter handling balance?
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 4:01 AM
The V3's have more anti corrosion stuff than any coil over on the market so I would say they would work in winter.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:17 AM
"Even though I have driven and fallen in love with several modified EVO’s in various track events, I was surprised to find myself liking Project STi better." (very encouraging...) Looking forward to EVO vs STI...
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 7:00 AM
Great article! I learned a lot and won't keep it to myself.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 7:50 AM
How much snow driving have you done, Mike? I'd normally be concerned about a stiff suspension in the snow if it were anything but a Subaru. On snow tires, with all that subaruness its probably still passable in the winter, but far from ideal. I haven't driven this car, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I don't think Mike has ever seen snow, though, so take his with one too...
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:37 AM
Of course the suspension would not be snow optimized but neither is the stock one. I was talking about from a corrosion standpoint. East Coast snow driven cars crumble with corrosion. Mot coil overs would fall apart in one good winter. If you wanted to be more snow optimized, then disconnect the bars and raise the ride height and soften up the shocks. Yes I have driven in snow.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 10:22 AM
Are these KW's independently height adjustable, without having to move the spring perch? (I'm of the impression they're not). Read nothing but good things about these units everywhere but was just curious why they felt that feature was not necessary. Thoughts?
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:39 AM
No they are not, KW's design philosophy feels that that feature would encourage overlowering, which would mess up the suspension geometry.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:45 AM
Very interesting about the crossmember lock. I bet that went a long way in making the handling more predictable. Having owned an Evo, and tracked a STI once, those steering rack bushings for the STI are absolutely necessary! The stock bushings had gotten so torn up in the car I tracked, the steering wheel was shaking a good half-inch in all sorts of directions! Very un-nerving.... And the diff clunk on WRXs is annoying. Glad there are bushings for that.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 3:46 PM
Is there a reason that I see a huge XS front mount in some of the pictures and not in others? Otherwise good job!
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 4:03 PM
Good Eye! Some of the pictures were taken at different times.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:14 PM
@Dave - as of course you know, almost anything *can* be driven in snow, but I only have spring rates in the 400 range and softer OEM Nissan dampers: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3hXn0RGWkTeTPyyoKAEWQw?feat=directlink But sure as hell fun! Team O'Reilly Rally School up in NH, nice place. http://picasaweb.google.com/skylinegtr01/AudiClubWinterDriving# But your old B13 is a good example of a car that would go nowhere in snow w/o a lot of encouragement, even if I drove it in Winter. Upped the springs with new set of Progress CO's last Aug to 450/350 and major handling improvement, but even more useless in snow. Nice article, great writeup on the variants.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:18 PM
@Mike - IDK if that's really true about a season or two. My STi friends drive their cars mostly year 'round in New England, and corrosion of the body is a much bigger concern than corrosion of the CO's. I also use Fluid Film on all the exposed stuff, a sort of parrafin based spray with who knows what in it. Plow drivers swear by it and salt spray won't stick to it, my truck is much happier now. GREAT stuff. Also sprayed down all the suspension and steel bits on my G, which sees a good amount of winter use.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:19 PM
Man how do I change this? http://www.gravatar.com/avatar/5bd149964e5e6b0dd6535a4fbf567630?d=wavatar
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 9:09 AM
Go to gravatar.com and sign up using the same email address u used to register for motoiq...
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 5:43 PM
Does Aaron still have this car? That FMIC rocks dude hahah.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 9:52 PM
Granted this is a Subaru and it was engineered to haul pony-dick through the woods and pull stumps out of gay farmer's feilds but for snow driving wouldn't it be better to run a softer suspension and focus more on steering feedback? There's a guy on our forum (www.ga16forum.com) that ice races a B12 awd Sentra wagon with a turbo'd GA who from his pictures doesn't have anything crazy in terms of suspension. He seems to just use steering feedback and sliding to navigate turns and scrub of speed respectively. Im thinking the STI setup or maybe just a decent spring/shock combo would be a better way to go than full coilovers for the snow. Sry to nitpick at your weathered-ness. :D
Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:43 AM
If you get down to it, really soft suspension and really skinny tires work the best for snow, look at the WRC cars when they run in snow, but the question was could this stuff be run year round without damaging it and the answer is yes. Is this what I would run for ice racing? Maybe, I have never iced raced but I could ask a few people. I have never raced in snow but I do real well in the rain and all I do is soften the shocks and lower my air pressure.
Thursday, April 01, 2010 11:16 AM
Due to its German roots, KW originally designed their coilovers to function in the varying weather conditions all over Europe. The oil inside the coilovers is actually a very costly aviation grade fluid that is designed to maintain viscosity and thus damping consistency down to -40F, temperatures you would experience at high altitudes. Cold weather conditions would not degrade the damping forces or consistency even if you parked your car out in the snow. As for ice racing applications, while there is some adjustability in the low speed compression and rebound forces to help the tires dig in, the high speed profiles would be too agressive. If you are looking for an ice racing application, KW does custom build competition applications specific to your vehicle and needs. This means spring, damping forces, knee points, and even stroke can be changed.
 
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