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Ritchie tig Welding exhaust at Technosquare

How to Make Your Own Effective Exhaust System

By Mike Kojima and Sarah Forst

You are bummed.  You don’t own a Honda, STi, EVO or some sort of popular sport compact car.  Maybe you have an old school Celica, Corolla, Cavalier, Neon, Hyndai, Geo, Saturn or a similar ride that does not have tons of aftermarket support.  Maybe you want a spiffy all polished stainless system but can’t get a pre-made offering that you like.  Maybe you do have a popular car but it has a ripping turbo system and no one makes a good pre made 3” system for your car.  What to do?  Well we will show you how to roll your own system that will be as good as, maybe even better than a commercially made system, probably for less money as well! Got a high powered naturally aspirated engine with cams with lots of overlap?  Gotta feed the merged collector with a 3” exhaust or you are gonna lose some power and not too many 4-cylinder cars have pre-made 3” systems.

We will first get into and explain how the different parts of an exhaust work so you can choose the best pieces, then show you how you can build a high performance system with perhaps some help from your local muffler shop or a friendly local welder.  No matter how small the town you live in is, you should still be able to get this stuff done.

Follow us in this article’s pictorial section on how we get a 3” all stainless steel system built for a 520 whp turbo powered Sentra SE-R.  As no 3” pre-fabricated system is made for this car, we will have to build our own.
 
The Muffler
The key part of your exhaust system is the muffler.  The muffler is the can at the end of your exhaust whose main purpose in life, is to make the engine noise quiet. To be the whisper quiet device that most car owners demand, a typical stock muffler must have an intricate and labyrinth-like internal flow path to help slow and cool the hot, vibrating with sound energy, exhaust gas.  It contains baffles that cause the exhaust flow to reverse direction and intermix.  These are great for reducing noise but are not so great for having good power unleashing flow. This is mostly because all the twists and turns that the exhaust must endure in a stock muffler are a restriction that causes excess backpressure.  You can run in a straight line faster than you can run in a tight maze in a fun house right?  The same goes for your exhaust gas.

stock muffler
Here is a typical stock muffler cut open.  See how the baffles reverse the flow several times though chambers and force the flow to travel through wadding?  Good to cut noise, bad for backpressure and ultimately, performance.

To produce the most amount of power, an exhaust should have the least amount of restriction to the exhaust flow.  Restriction hampers the burnt exhaust gasses from exiting your engine, causing some charge dilution with the incoming fresh fuel air mixture.  If all the exhaust gas cannot escape from you cylinders, it dilutes the flammable power producing intake mixture that is trying to come in.  The diluted mixture does not burn as well as a pure mixture.  This causes a loss of power.  You don’t feel so energetic at a packed club with lots of cigarette smoke, sweaty bodies and hot stuffy air right?  Neither does your motor.  With greater restriction, backpressure is generated making the engine work harder to pump the exhaust out of the engine's cylinders.  The harder it is to get the exhaust out; the power wasted to pump the stale exhaust gas out of a restrictive exhaust system could be used to turn the wheels instead.  Turbocharged, suspercharged, Nitrous Equipped and engines with really big cams are all especially sensitive to backpressure.

An old hotrodders tall tale is that engines need some backpressure to work properly and make torque.  Well that is not true.  What engines need is the lowest low backpressure possible but with a high exhaust stream velocity.  A fast moving but free flowing gas column in the exhaust helps create a rarefaction or a negative pressure wave behind the exhaust valve right as it opens.  This vacuum helps scavenge the cylinder of exhaust gas faster and more thoroughly with less pumping loss-inducing work.   A too big in diameter exhaust pipe has low backpressure but lower velocity.  The low velocity reduces the effectiveness of this scavenging effect, which has the greatest impact on low-end torque.  So remember fast = low backpressure + high velocity.  Slow=low backpressure=too big of an exhaust pipe=low velocity.  Low backpressure also helps a turbocharger work more effectively.
 

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Posted in: Magazine, Tech, Engine

Comments

BenFenner
# BenFenner
Tuesday, July 21, 2009 8:36 AM
The pictures of welders/welding with short sleeves shirts and/or no gloves on are disconcerting.
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Tuesday, July 21, 2009 9:43 AM
If you have ever tig welded using a fine tungsten and filler you would know that this doesn't spark or even give off that much heat.

A lot of good fabricators that I know, don't wear gloves to get more dexterity when doing this sort of fine welding like you would on thin wall 321 stainless like in this picture.

Its probably not by the book, but I know and work with a lot of good fabricators.
BenFenner
# BenFenner
Wednesday, July 22, 2009 6:32 AM
The massive sun burns all over my hands and arms after my first day of TIG welding taught me a lesson I will never forget. =[]
Rockwood
# Rockwood
Wednesday, July 22, 2009 9:07 AM
Yep. It's not the sparks that get you, so much as the UV light that comes off. I've been badly sunburned (and I don't burn easily) after being exposed to maybe 1 total minute of welding over a 30 minute period. Now, I always wear gloves, long sleeves, pants and real boots whenever I'm welding something that's not on a bench.

However, you're less likely to get sunburned when TIG welding on a bench because your gloves will block most of the light coming off of the arc anyway. If you look at the picture, you'll see that there is no blue light on any of his exposed skin.

Still, it only takes a couple of seconds to get a bad sunburn from it.
cheeky14
# cheeky14
Friday, July 31, 2009 11:02 PM
I had a question about a cat back exhaust that i want to have made for my 97 s14 with ka24de. I live here locally in L.A. & plan to have Mario fab it for me, but i was noticing that the stock exhaust system has a component which i am not sure should be removed.

The factory manifold is short & has a cat. attached to it with the primary O2sensor before & an O2sensor after the cat. then there is a heavy gauge metal chamber which bolts on after the cat. which from the outside looks like a cat. with no shield & has a welded tag on it showing that it is made by Calsonic; which i know Nissan uses as a supplier. I've worked on the car & have had to remove the cat. back piping & noticed it is an empty chamber so theirs my question is this
chamber affect the cats function? (being that i plan to run the stock manifold/cat setup) or is it for noise purposes,cooling of exhaust gasses after cat., backpressure, scavenging... i don't know. Does it matter if i remove it or should a leave it on?

Also, i noticed in the article you wrote about exhausts you showed various designs i was wondering what you thought of the Spintech mufflers which are used on alot of American street rods; heres a link
http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/spintechindex.asp
i was thinking of using a couple of these to keep the sound level low & also the canisters are flat which makes for nice packaging under the veh.

Seagondollar
# Seagondollar
Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:18 AM
I'm in the process of inserting an AE101 4AGZE into my 88 MR2. You're probably aware of the space limitations under the MR2 and would like some feedback.

First of all I'm looking for polished stainless for looks and a tone that is not loud or droning on the freeway. My current idea is as large (in volume) a Magnaflow muffler that I can mount under the trunk and possibly a tip with some surrounding wadding.

What would you do?
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Thursday, October 29, 2009 12:42 PM
That sounds about right, it is tough to package a quiet exhaust in the space an MR2 has.

The Burns Stainless muffer is pretty effective, lightweight and quiet in high frequencys in a compact package. It is expensive and has to be mounted carefuly.
Dejablu311
# Dejablu311
Monday, November 30, 2009 9:48 PM
You guys have talked a good deal about the importance of velocity and how they coincide with smooth, uninterrupted flows. However, I have seen a great deal of factory cars as well as high end after market exhausts include X pipes in their exhaust systems. What are your thoughts on these?
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Saturday, December 12, 2009 2:39 PM
The X pipe helps scavanging by keeping a higher overall velocity. It also makes the sound good!
P.G
# P.G
Friday, November 05, 2010 5:11 AM
Hmmmm
This is really helpful.
May i ask!!!

I have 08 Nissan Altima 2.5 M\T.
I already install the Stillen header With K&N OEM filter replacement .
But The exhaust is still stock With OEM center catalytic converter.
Yesterday i I bought 2 HKS hi power muffler 2.5 inlet.
Is the best pipe size is 2.5 Or 2.25 inch ???
I will not remove the center catalytic converter.
And am i have to put the middle Silencer for the back pressure ???.
I am planing to work without the middle Silencer.

Any idea???

Thank you and sorry for my bad language.

Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Saturday, November 06, 2010 10:27 PM
2.5" and please read the story again.
P.G
# P.G
Sunday, November 07, 2010 10:24 AM
Thank you.

And i will.
destrux
# destrux
Friday, February 25, 2011 7:28 PM
I noticed many aftermarket systems for RWD cars don't have any flex joints or accordion style flex sections. I'm building an exhaust for my supra and was wondering if they are needed to prevent pipe cracking?
circuitsports
# circuitsports
Thursday, April 21, 2011 2:45 PM
A couple of things I like to add here - a spun cell cat because of it's design is more durable and usually better flowing than a ceramic block one - especially for a time attack style car. Also a diagonal core muffler has a greater internal surface area so you get more effective noise suppression from the same length without back pressure issues.

Also those burns mufflers made by coast fabrication in Huntington are ridiculous - they may be light but there noise suppression resonant frequency and rebuild-ability for anything semi legal are all a myth. The core of mine was gone pretty quickly and a bunch of the rivets failed and I went back to magnaflow a very expensive lesson.

A cool thing to do is if you need an xpipe is to use the magnaflow muffler that is built over an xpipe perforated core - it's designed for a truck so quite large but is very effective for noise suppression as well.

Also I would have recommended against sectional tubing kits as the change the resonance and there was an article a long time ago about the negative impact on small engines claiming up to 1hp lost for every join. Especially in LA area where companies like Fast intentions can make mandrel bent custom piping for relatively cheap.

And although a time attack car can be loud a full on race car that's loud can have quite a detrimental effect on the drivers endurance.
circuitsports
# circuitsports
Thursday, April 21, 2011 2:46 PM
btw on the supra you should look into a custom diff mounted hanger - my s2000 exhaust kept cracking and this has effectively fixed it - T1r's exhaust for the s2000 has this built in.
circuitsports
# circuitsports
Thursday, April 21, 2011 2:53 PM
the t1r single btw and sorry i meant the rear sub frame that craddles the diff like this

http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/3258/imag0250.jpg
←snow∞motion→
# ←snow∞motion→
Monday, March 19, 2012 2:55 PM
Can you link details to your "floating cradle mount"?

That looks EXACTLY like what I've been trying to figure out, and can't find details on it.

Thanks
destrux
# destrux
Monday, March 19, 2012 4:11 PM
It does have one of those stock, but the it still moves around alot. It hasn't cracked yet after a year. I just ordered a new muffler for it and I'm going to add another hanger before the muffler.

I got tired of the ricer looking N1 style muffler that came on the exhaust system I bought, so I got a Jones Full Boar stainless muffler and some sectional mandrel bends to fit it up where the stock muffler was instead of sticking out goofy like the other one was. Going for a more classy look with the car.

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