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Project Honda S2000 StopTech Brakes
The StopTech caliper has a stiff forged alloy body and is radially mounted, this is a stiffer more direct way to mount calipers.

Advantage number one over stock: the calipers.  The stock front calipers on the S2000 are a single piston, sliding design.  Yes, they stop the car, but they leave a lot to be desired in feel.  The caliper is prone to flexing which can make for inconsistent pedal effort.  Also, being only single piston, the pressure distribution on the pads between each side and on each pad them self can be uneven.  Lastly, if not maintained, it’s possible to get the ‘sticky’ caliper where the ‘slide’ part no longer functions.  This basically results in only one pad doing all the work and one pad getting all the wear.  The dragging pad will also run much hotter, possibly damaging the pad, rotor and caliper. The StopTech calipers, having 4 opposed pistons have nothing to ‘stick’ or drag!

Project Honda S2000 StopTech Brakes
Installing brake pads is a snap!  Just remove the two 5mm allen head bolts, take off the caliper bridge and the pads are accessible.  This is MUCH easier than the standard Brembo setup that requires knocking out two long pins, using something pointy and a hammer, and then dealing with a pad retention spring.  Oh, and putting the pins back in on the Brembos is a pain too.

A very important advantage of Stoptech calipers is that the proportioning of their systems is calculated to match the S2000's hydraulic system.  On stock single master cylinder brake hydraulic systems, the brake's proportioning is mostly determined by the caliper piston size.  The larger the piston the greater the hydraulic force applied to the brake pad, the smaller, the less.  Stoptech duplicates the OEM proportioning using 19 different possible combinations of piston sizes. Stoptech has the greatest spread of piston sizes available on the market and thus can come the closest towards duplicating the correct proportioning when compared to other manufacturers. Many things are considered when choosing piston sizes; stock master cylinder bore diameter, car size and weight, weight distribution, brake pad size, rotor size, tire size and wheel size.

Project Honda S2000 StopTech Brakes
The StopTech calipers have dust boots to protect the seals unlike many race calipers and have stainless steel abutments to protect the alloy body from the steel brake pad backing plates.  This ensures smooth operation.

The StopTech ST-40 caliper is way beefier and a 4-piston design; two pistons for each brake pad.  The super stiffness of the forged aluminum caliper improves feel and consistency, while the 4-piston design greatly improves the pressure distribution on the pads; more even pressure distribution should improve pad wear and feel consistency.  An important aspect to the piston sizing is using different sized pistons on the leading and trailing sides of the brake pad to eliminate taper wear (where the leading and trailing sides of the pads wear at different rates); this is good practice as even the OEM calipers on a Honda CBR 600RR sportbike have pistons with differential sizing.  Taper wear is caused by the leading edge of the pad digging in and causing a tipping moment that increases pressure and wear on the front side of the pad. 

Unlike most other racing brake calipers, the StopTech caliper has dust boots to protect the seals during long term street driving from abrasive pad dust, water and other potentially damaging contaminants.

Project Honda S2000 StopTech Brakes
We used a set of StopTech's Street Performance brake pads.  These semi metallic pads are long lasting, quieter and lower dusting than race pads and work well at lower temperatures.

 

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Comments

phunky.buddha
# phunky.buddha
Thursday, July 22, 2010 5:58 AM
Yay brakes! So fender clearance to be more specific- problems at the inner edge or outer edge at the top of the tire? I need to come play with your car on a lift the next time I'm out there.

Good writeup Khiem! I need more pics. ^_^
rsmotors
# rsmotors
Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:05 AM
Cant wait to see this thing out on the track taking on the big boys! So far its looking like its the perfect balance of street vs race.
max rockatansky
# max rockatansky
Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:34 AM
Do I understand that this wheel spacer/lug mount is aluminum?

axial and shear loads will now be trying to pull this 10mm aluminum piece into a warped record shape. Some simple instant load calculations vs the pull out strength of studs and yield strength of aluminum should make you think twice about this. There is a reason hubs are not aluminum in the first place.

If your studs are too short then you should take the time to get proper length units pressed into the hubs. These "trick" parts are time bombs on a track.

Eric Hsu
# Eric Hsu
Thursday, July 22, 2010 9:43 AM
max: I think you are forgetting that the wheel spacers are torqued in between the wheel, brake rotor hat, and hub. So any axial or shear loads would have to overcome spacer, wheel, brake rotor hat, hub, and studs for any deformation to occur. Very unlikely.

Nice brakes Khiem.
JDMized
# JDMized
Thursday, July 22, 2010 12:18 PM
What are you guys planning to do for the rear brakes?
I read somewhere StopTech does offer a BBK for the rear but it deletes the parking brakes....any thoughts?
Fly'n_Z
# Fly'n_Z
Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:14 PM
I remember reading on the forums that you're headed out for a track day on August 1st. Looking forward to hearing your impressions of the brakes on track either here or in the forums :)
mx5
# mx5
Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:22 PM
I noticed you removed the dust shields. What's your opinion about those? Don't they help with cooling at the track by chanelling air?
Or are they just extra weight whose main purpose is to keep brake dust off the balljoint rubber boots, etc.?
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Thursday, July 22, 2010 7:35 PM
Hey Khiem, How are those studs anchored in those spacers? Max has a point. 10mm is pretty sketchy for shear unless something is really engineered in them like some sort of long steel insert. Are these things track proven? Long studs and conventional hub centering spacers are a lot less jankey.

MX5- I always remove dust shields, when I was racing IT a long time ago when cars had crappy solid rotors, removing the dust shields made things a little cooler. Some cars like the EVO and my 300ZXTT have scoops and air directors in the shields but I would still rather have bigger brakes.
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Thursday, July 22, 2010 7:58 PM
The spacers are steel, not aluminum. I spoke with Eddie at Mackin Industries and he said that a few Formula Drift guys use them. I spoke with the guys at Evasive, and they use the 10mm on their track Evo; their Evo has seen a lot more abuse than my car will see. I'm not a fan of curb hopping :) Not to mention, the Evo weighs more and they're running higher grip tires.

On the S2k, to replace the studs involves removing the hubs, and that really means the hub bearings should be replaced also; not a cheap proposal. However, at the point in time when I DO need to replace the wheel bearings (quite a few 10s of thousands of miles away since I'm still below 50k), I'll go with longer studs and a normal spacer.

As for dust shields, I had them off of my Nissan for 130k miles with no ill effects. All of that car's life was spent in Florida and Texas where you can't see 100ft when it rains, so water was never an issue. I'd be surprised if the dust shields helped at all with cooling. There are better solutions like the air deflectors used on Evos and Porsche 911s. Or just a typical brake duct system.

For the rear brakes, the rear StopTech kit is not compatible with the parking brake. As such, the rear brakes are only seeing the upgraded SS lines, and just replacement rotors when the time comes. And brake pads of course.

It's getting near track ready..... still needs some more reliability mods. To be continued!
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:05 PM
Ah Steel, many OEM hubs have that amount of stud engagement so should be ok then. FD cars really put the shear loads in stuff!
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Thursday, July 22, 2010 10:06 PM
Yup, steel. It threw me off when I saw the Evasive site say aluminum, but it is definitely steel. They are heavy, and I verified with a call to Evasive. The fact that Evasive uses them on their track Evo (way more modded and track oriented than this car) puts me at ease.

I do agree that installing longer studs is the optimal, it's just not nearly as feasible at this juncture due to limited hub bearing wear (don't like tossing perfectly good parts), budget, time (car is DD), and I couldn't do it myself.
leighwayne
# leighwayne
Thursday, July 22, 2010 10:14 PM
Huh, I have never made the connection between braking and energy in the form of heat.
So, if you know how fast you are going and what speed you want to slow down to, then you know the change in kinetic energy your brakes must stop and thus will heat up. Going a step further you can figure out how much air is needed to keep your brakes cool. Nice!

Really great article!
spdracerut
# spdracerut
Friday, July 23, 2010 7:41 AM
I got the lowdown from Eddie at Mackin; he tracked down the materials for me from Project KICS.

The 10mm spacer uses S45C-H which is a quench hardened carbon/structural steel. The 15-30mm spacers use 2014 aluminum alloy. The 5 discs things are SCM45 which looks to be a hardended molybdenum steel.

Leighwayne, yup, all braking is doing is converting kinetic energy into heat. In the real world, you also have aerodynamic drag, rolling friction, drivetrain drag/engine braking, etc. But like in college physics, you ignore all that stuff in doing the basic calculation.

Your brakes have waaaaaaay more horsepower than your engine! Well, most cars at least!
Evan
# Evan
Friday, July 23, 2010 12:59 PM
MX5, the dust shields must be removed for clearance reasons when installing the Stoptech kit. There may be other benefits to removing them such as cooling and weight savings, but the primary reason for removing them is to mount the new brakes.

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