Page Options
You are here : Magazine Articles
  Minimize
24

 Sarah Forst

Ask Sarah- DSM Fuel System Tips

By Sarah Forst

Dear Sarah

I read your last article about using a properly sized fuel system and wondered if my fuel system is adequate enough for when I finish my engine build.  I have a 1995 Eclipse GS-T that I’m upgrading to the 16G turbo.  Is there an easy way to determine how big of injectors or fuel pump I need so I don’t run out of fuel at full boost?  Any other helpful hints?

David H.

Got a Tech Question?  Email Sarah at asksarah@motoiq.com
 

The 1995-1999 (2nd gen) turbocharged Eclipse uses a Garrett T25 instead of the first generation Mitsubishi 13G and 14B turbos.  The compression ratio was increased from 7.8:1 to 8.5:1 in the 2G’s in order to provide power with this smaller turbo but keep the turbo lag to a minimum. 

Almost any turbo is an upgrade over the tiny, stock T25 which is limited to about 250 horsepower.  Even though stock boost is rated up to 14psi, it barely pushes 10psi at redline.  The stock blow off valve has such a weak spring it can’t hold that boost.  The 16G turbo (TDO5-16G) with 7cm exhaust housing flows just over 500cfm and can boost over 20psi.  The 2G Garrett turbo routes the intercooler hose differently and uses different water and oil lines than the 1G turbos so if you’re going to install a larger Mitsubishi turbo such as the 16G on your 1995-1999 Eclipse, you’ll need to make some changes.  Road Race Engineering sells a full 16G turbo install kit that will simplify your life.  The kit includes the 2 ¼” piping from the turbo to the stock intercooler, braided stainless steel oil supply line, oil drain line to oil pan, front and rear water cooling lines, and all gaskets and washers to complete the install. 

Mitsbishi 16G Turbo
The 16G is a very mild upgrade for a turbo.  You will have to do a bunch of stuff to get it to work on a 2G Eclipse so you might want to consider an upgraded one like this one from Forced Performance or even a  bigger 20G.

A turbo provides more air to the engine and requires additional fuel for safe, complete combustion.  Depending on your boost, you will need larger injectors and a higher volume pump.  Larger fuel injectors and fuel pump will require some way to control them.
If you’re not a numbers person, I can give you generalizations.  The stock injectors flow 450cc/min but give up around 14-15psi on pump gas.  550cc/min injectors such as those from RC Engineering, and a larger fuel pump will work for 16-18psi on pump gas and up to 21psi with race gas.  If you’re boosting above that, you’ll need 660cc or 720cc injectors, a higher volume fuel pump, and a high volume fuel rail such as the one from AEM to deal with the additional fuel volume requirements.  The stock 2G Denso fuel pump flows 130lph (liters per hour) at 43psi at 12.5 volts at the fuel pump, good for boosting up to 14psi.  With these fuel pumps, flow falls off as pressure increases.  Your options for upgrade include the Walbro 190lph (which is rated closer to 170lph for the same 12.5 volts) or 255lph (rated around 230lph).  I would probably recommend going straight to the 255lph version.

Calculating your Fuel System

If you *are* a numbers person, you’re in luck- I’m about to get all mathematical on you!  You can calculate what size injectors and fuel pump your engine will require once you figure out the expected horsepower you plan on making.  Most turbos have fairly efficient compressors and the 16G has around 70% efficiency, which we’ll use to calculate how much power it takes to compress air.  Based on your engine’s displacement, volumetric efficiency, and the turbo’s compressor efficiency, you can probably get to 380 horsepower with the 16G upgrade.  This assumes 91+ octane unleaded pump gas and 0.6 BSFC for a richly tuned motor which is typical of a turbo on pump gas.  Obviously using race gas with a leaner race motor tune would change these calculations but you should consider conservative tuning to have headspace in your fuel system. 

RC Engineering Injectors
We like RC Engineering Injectors, they are high quality, good performing and relatively inexpensive.

We can use this horsepower number to calculate what size injectors and fuel pump you’ll need.  Injectors are rated in either lbs/hour or cc/min.  Let’s calculate injector size for our horsepower by dividing the BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) by the number of injectors, and then multiplying that by the expected horsepower.  Solving for injector size:

Injector size in lbs/hr = (0.60 / 4) * 380 horsepower
Injector size = 57.4 lb/hr

This assumes a 100% duty cycle, or total flow when the injector is held fully open, but you should calculate injector size at a lower duty cycle so you won’t run the risk of maxing out your injectors.  You can do that by dividing horsepower by duty cycle before solving for the rest of the equations.  Let’s assume a safe 85% duty cycle, which results in needing at least 67.6 lb. injectors.  You can convert this number from lb/hr to cc/min with this equation:

Injector size in cc/min = Injector size in lbs/hr * 9.71
Injector size = 656 cc/min

To calculate the total fuel flow to find the fuel pump size, calculate for the total fuel requirements by multiplying the injector fuel flow in lb/hr by the number of injectors:

67.6 x 4 = 270.3 lb/hr

Fuel pumps are usually sold in liters per hour of flow so we must convert to lph.  Fuel weighs about 6 pounds per gallon. Convert to gallons per hour by dividing by 6, or 270.3/6 = 45 gallons per hour.  Convert to liters per hour by multiplying by the conversion rate of 3.785, or 175 liters per hour so the Walbro 190lph would provide just enough fuel for these conditions, however to have some fuel system headspace, just get the 255lph model.

Pages: 1 of 2 Next Page

Comments

Street Surgeon
# Street Surgeon
Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:53 AM
I would preface this entire article by saying that while wanting a larger turbo is only natural for any DSM enthusiat, be sure to purchase all the supporting mods before slapping that turbo on there! Before you even do any of that, make sure your car is good to go mechanically! I can't even begin to tell you how many DSM's I've seen that had a shiny new turbo bolted on and have been on the same waterpump and timing belt as were installed 100,000 miles ago!

Also I have a question for Sarah. You said to look for a high clamp load, low pedal effort clutch to avoid the "dreaded" 2G crankwalk. Do you think that hich clamp load pressureplates cause crankwalk? ;)



Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Thursday, February 25, 2010 7:34 PM
She was meaning to say, low clamp load and as editor, I didnt catch the typo. I think Sarah will elaborate more soon. She is sick with the flu I think so give her a bit.
#
Friday, February 26, 2010 1:49 AM
1)If I recall correctly the injectors on the DSM are 450cc and are easily able to keep up with the 16G turbo is going to be able to supply within it's efficiency range.
2) Unless I am mistaken (it has happened)...the last picture is of a wastegate not a BOV.

If I was building any dsm for a goal of over 300whp, I'd eliminate the balance shafts. firstly that annoying and weak little belt is gone and second it is the single biggest 'character' changing mod (for the money...cheap).

Those that are interested in knowing about 7 bolt crankwalk can go to the Magnus Motorsports site and read an article on it.
#
Friday, February 26, 2010 1:51 AM
BTW... I am very stoked to see all the great minds of the Sport Compact publication on one blog style site. Really enjoy our articles.
Street Surgeon
# Street Surgeon
Friday, February 26, 2010 5:46 AM
Sure you can use your factory 450cc injectors with an installed 16G, but you sure as hell will max them out loooooooooooooooooong before you've maxed out the turbo's potential! Even only at 300hp you would be pushing it.

I would agree with Sarah that a high clamp load pressure plate, low pedal effort clutch is ideal but unless you go with a twin-disc they're almost impossible to find. The point I was trying to make was that I'm not altogether sold on the myth that a heavy duty (high clamp load) clutch causes crankwalk. Pleeeeeeeeeeenty of auto's have crankwalked to without a pressure plate at all.
Sarah Forst
# Sarah Forst
Friday, February 26, 2010 11:30 AM
D'oh, my bad. Must be the flu editing this one... Nobody knows exactly why the 2G engines experience crank walk and I've seen plenty of 4G63's with auto or OEM clutches that have had crank walk as well; some theories include excessive clearance or excess bleeding of oil pressure through a different piston cooler that opens at a lower pressure. But a high clamp load clutch puts more load on the thrust bearing of the crank and could aggravate the crank walk. For a really powerful engine, a twin disc is advisable as they can deliver a lot of holding force with a lighter diaphragm spring.

Balance shaft removal may be worth some power as I'm familiar with in the QR25's when I wrote about it for Nissan Perf Mag. Maybe we'll write a more detailed article about BS (hehe) removal at a later date. And the stock 450cc injectors will work for low boost on the 16G turbo, but not this much boost. Hopefully the formulas help people calculate what size fuel system is best for their setup.
Street Surgeon
# Street Surgeon
Friday, February 26, 2010 12:46 PM
Eliminating those balance shafts would also increase the oil pressure (on an engine where oil pressure at idle is sometimes as low as 10-15psi!!!) which is yet another theory as to why 2G's crankwalk. I love balance shaft elimination; more power, higher reliability, increased oil pressure, yay.
#
Friday, February 26, 2010 2:18 PM
There are 2 Mitsubishi 16G turbos if I recall correctly. So better to be safe than sorry and go with bigger injectors anyway.

As for the crankwalk, some think that there is some miraculous crankwalk hex and others think that it is a materials flaw. I have no idea.
Street Surgeon
# Street Surgeon
Saturday, February 27, 2010 1:25 PM
DSM-wise there are three MHI variants, the small, big, and evo III 16G. There are also "sleeper" series 16G's with everything from a 20G wheel, to larger garrett wheels stuffed into the compressor side of them. Interestingly enough, the one pictured above in the article is for the newer model evo?
Mike Kojima
# Mike Kojima
Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:01 PM
I think the oil galleys are somewhat different in the 2G engine as well?

I don't care, my 4G63 has a pull type clutch and a really big oil pump!
Street Surgeon
# Street Surgeon
Sunday, February 28, 2010 8:47 PM
There are tons of differences between the old 1G "6-bolts", the 1G "7-bolts". and their 2G "7-bolt" brethren. Oil galleys, oil squirters/piston coolers, crank design and bolt patter, girdles etc. etc.

Post Comment

Only registered users may post comments.

MotoIQ Proudly Presents Our Partners:


Copyright 2012 by MotoIQ.com
Privacy StatementTerms Of UseAdvertise