
|
|
Mike Kojima posted on December 22, 2010 17:10 

The Hows and Whys of Battery Relocation
By Mike Kojima
Many suspension experts have touted the value of relocating the car's battery in an effort to improve the weight distribution of the chassis. Many experts claim that battery relocation is the cheapest and most efficient way to make the biggest change in chassis balance.
In setting up a car for handling it is preferable to attempt to attain a 50/50 weight distribution so that all of the wheels share the load of getting a car around a corner as equally as possible. For drag racing, one strives to get as much weight as possible over the drive wheels to help traction. A car’s heaviest end is often the opposite of what is ideal, such as a front wheel drive car or a front engine rear drive car.
 |
| Moroso makes this high quality battery relocation kit, however it needs a heavy duty mount as the plastic box cannot come close to containing the battery in an accident. |
To try to improve the weight distribution, race car builders have resorted to things like setting the engine back in a front engine car to get more weight where it can do good, moving the location of heavy components like the radiator, oil tanks, coolers and even moving the driver. This is all fine for the serious and heavily sponsored racer but cost and difficulty of fabrication needed to do some of these things makes them out of the question for the average enthusiast. Well, what if you found out about a mod where you could get the same change in weight distribution as setting the engine back 5-10 inches that took very little time and money to do? You would probably jump all over this right?
Well you can get all of the benefits of setting the engine back this amount by simply relocating the battery from the front of the engine compartment to the trunk. This simple mod can change the weight distribution of a car from 1-2%, this is a big difference that can easily be felt by the driver in terms of less understeer and/or better traction.
 |
| The Dog II uses several battery tricks to optimize performance. It uses a small, lightweight Odyssey 680 dry cell battery mounted in the passenger rear side of the interior, this sheds weight, reduces polar moment of inertia, helps offset the drivers weight and improves weight distribution. |
To show what a big difference simply relocating the battery can make, we took a AE86 Corolla and put it on corner scales with 200 lbs of weight to simulate a driver in the seat and moved the battery around to show what sort of difference in weight distribution simply moving the battery can make.
 |
| Password JDM makes this very cool dry carbon mount for the Odyssey 680 was well as cool dry carbon battery boxes and relocation kits for Hondas. We like this clean, simple and lightweight approach. |
Corner scales are electronic scales used to set up the chassis of a race car with adjustable coil overs. The spring heights of each corner are adjusted to get a 50% cross weight percentage with the driver’s weight in the seat. When the cross weight percentage is 50% the car will have an equal balance in left and right turns regardless of the drivers offset weight in the car.
Wednesday, January 06, 2010 9:22 PM
Mike, are these lightweight batteries suitable for cars that are not driven frequently? If I were to use one what can I do to ensure it lives a long life (apart from disconnecting the battery when parked)?

Wednesday, January 06, 2010 10:13 PM
The blue Moroso box in my car has been great, I have only added some larger stainless washers top and bottom so the bolts have more effective surface area. I like that box a lot. Not legal for some things and a billet bracket would be better, but it's not going anywhere soon. http://homepage.mac.com/stracy01/.Pictures/B13_RSTB02/RSTB_w_brace_08.JPG Another very nice bonus is routing my CAI any way I please without that battery in the way. I don't get it really, boats put batteries in good places out of the way, why don't cars...the Koyo added some weight up front, maybe 8 lbs or so, but oh well, the alternative is a KFC motor. http://homepage.mac.com/stracy01/.Pictures/B13_PSRes_GRNDkit/PS_Res_and_GRND11.JPG The Odyssey in my other car has been good but for some reason does not like the cold weather. Prior owner put it up front, it would have been cheaper and more effective to move the battery to the trunk passenger side. I just pull it and put it on a trickle charge the day before I turn the car over, it does not see the salt and snow of New England, neither B13 does. http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1507/medium/intake2.jpg
Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:58 AM
Wow, you guys post so many great articles, it's almost hard to keep up. I was wondering if you had pictures of the battery positions in the right trunk and behind the passenger for the AE86. I have the same car and want to see the positions of the battery you used to get those measurements. Thanks!
Thursday, January 07, 2010 5:21 AM
So Steve, you are saying you let it run down and then trickle charge it the day before running the car? how long have you had the battery and also how long does it take for the battery to run down if you don't drive the car?
Thursday, January 07, 2010 7:58 AM
Wrecked, I keep the small batteries on a battery tender charger and no problem.
Thursday, January 07, 2010 7:59 AM
Steve, Do not rely on the battery box or the cheesy wire bracket to retain the battery. In an accident, it will fly right through the box after busting out of the cheesy bracket. I have seen this happen several times before in racing wrecks.
Thursday, January 07, 2010 8:02 AM
KeyOfGrey, We didn't actually mount the battery, just placed it to see how it affected the corner weight. If you like our articles, help spread the word about us! Post and link us around on forums you go to. We will have a cool 4AG build article in the next few days coming up!
Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:00 PM
@Mike Kojima : Excellent timing on the 4ag build article, I'll be looking forward to it. I'm about to garage the Corolla for an engine teardown within the next couple months!
Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:42 PM
Do you have a recommendation for a circuit breaker as far as brand and amperage go? I have had two friends' cars catch on fire from doing this, one from chafing, and the other from spilled auto cleaning products. If I decide to relocate my odyssey I want to take every precaution that I can.
Thursday, January 07, 2010 4:29 PM
I definitely have to compliment the quality of the wiring. Hack job wiring makes me cringe!
Thursday, January 07, 2010 5:42 PM
A couple important points for anyone relocating a battery: 1: Be very careful about your ground wire. Make sure its getting really good contact. The best way to do this is bolt directly to the body with a grounding bolt (you can see what the special grounding threads look like here: http://tinyurl.com/y8tpfa2) and maybe even run a tap through the threads in the body to clean out the paint. I've grounded to seemingly good spots like strut towers before only to have seriously wacky problems as a result of poor grounding. 2: make an equally good ground wire to the engine. A lot of factory wiring runs a ground wire directly from the battery to the engine. If you've removed this, you'll need to replace it with something as big and well connected as that big welding cable you just ran to the starter.
Thursday, January 07, 2010 7:17 PM
Plus one on what Dave said, in fact I am going to re-edit the story to include this. For Iron Giant, we use a 120 amp circuit breaker in our race cars.
Thursday, January 07, 2010 8:03 PM
What's stopping me? Mazda already got it right. And BMW, too. If it was my Evo, I'd add some armor to the cable under the car. At least some loom like you mention later. You're cheating when you don't include the 0 gauge cable, terminals and hold-down in the weight of the battery you're comparing to the OE installation. That stuff isn't light. It makes an argument for a smaller battery as close to the starter as possible with a lighter cable. Ken Motonishi had a PC680 at the right rear of the engine compartment and at floorboard level in his nationals-winning Civic.
Thursday, January 07, 2010 10:31 PM
The cable's weight is distributed along the length of the car and low so its affect on weight distribution is negligible. In my opinion thats a stupid place to put a battery. It is just as easy to mount it more rearward. Low and back in the engine compartment is hard to reach for maintenance. Plus if you can get the weight in a better place, it more than makes up for having the weight of a couple of feet of cable.
Friday, January 08, 2010 12:08 AM
Great article! You touched on it on the last page, but perhaps a little more detail on the proper placement of the new fuse/circuit breaker as well as fuse type/rating would be great! Thanks!
Friday, January 08, 2010 7:57 AM
Thats common sense, as close to the battery positive terminal as possible. We added another sentence to explain where to put it though for you!
Friday, January 08, 2010 9:54 AM
The whole article is common sense, that's what makes it a good read! (You couldn't PAY me to run a plastic battery box) I already knew where the fuse should go, and you DID answer the amperage question in the comments section, but for "article completeness" I just thought it was worth noting. Also, if the article is ever archived and moved one day (or displayed somewhere else in cyberspace) I doubt the comments section will go with it. Thanks though, for the addition "for me" :)
Friday, January 08, 2010 11:39 AM
It is so simple and feels good to shed 30-40lbs in one fell swoop. However, it sounds like your 200lb "simulated" driver could benefit from shedding a few :)
Friday, January 08, 2010 11:47 AM
The comments are archived with the article.
Friday, January 08, 2010 10:18 PM
Regardless of how the cable's weight is distributed, it still adds to the total weight of the car that must be accelerated. Especially if the car is light and underpowered, that is something to think about. I'm not going to call Ken stupid. The Optima D51 that's a drop-in for Civics weighs 26 lb, not actually that heavy. The stock position is high, at the cowl. Cutting the weight in half and moving it to the floorboard level has to help. Access wasn't a problem, since the tranny is on that side with a D motor, and it eliminated a lot of possible failure modes. Obviously, it would be stupid to put a battery right next to a downpipe or glowing turbo. If you are only dropping about 13 lb, putting several of them back in the car with a long, heavy cable is worth scratching your head for a minute or two. Not trying to say anyone is all wrong for putting a battery in the trunk, just pointing out other options and factors to consider when planning this mod.
Saturday, January 09, 2010 8:15 AM
I didn't say he was stupid, I said thats a stupid place to relocate a battery to if you were going to the trouble of relocating the battery in the first place. Carry it further and leave the battery in the stock location then using your logic. Better to cut the weight in half again by using a smaller battery and putting it where it can ballast something and add perhaps two lbs of cable at the most. You are also putting the battery in a more friendly more protected environment. A O cable doesn't weight that much, not enough to be in this argument about it. Why don't you do another test and tell me how it affects the numbers. Actually route a cable and tell me how it changes things. I won't but since you don't seem to believe me.

Saturday, January 09, 2010 11:40 AM
I don't have a set of corner scales, and all my cars already have the battery behind the passenger-side rear wheel as you advocate. The last car I did put on corner scales was an RSX-S, which has the battery behind the driver's-side headlight, the worst possible location. It was clear that moving it to the passenger side of the trunk would have been a big help, and the difference in cornering balance going left (fun) or right (less fun) confirmed that. In many cases, the only reasonable place in the engine compartment to locate the battery is the stock location, which may suck. I'm just suggesting considering at least all these aspects: total mass vertical position of mass lateral position of mass longitudinal position of mass distance from vehicle center of mass (polar moment) potential failure modes, and elimination versus attenuation serviceability effect on primary performance of the system or use of the vehicle total cost (including relative to gains/losses in other factors) total time spent (not to advocate being lazy) With any mods, depending on how these various factors are prioritized, reasonable people may come to different conclusions.
Saturday, January 09, 2010 11:51 AM
Didn't we cover all of that in this article in a more visual, easy to understand way in non engineering terms?
Saturday, January 09, 2010 12:32 PM
Yeah, you pretty much did, so good job. My original point was just that the math on the total weight reduction seemed to be based on only the difference in the batteries themselves. The battery mount, Braille electon box and cable (a little over 3' per lb without insulation, according to the Intarwebz), and any other details of the installation do add up to enough to be worth including in the calculation of weight reduction, especially if you don't start with a tank battery like the Evo has. Battery to battery, this might only be a 10- or 11-pound mod. If you use up 3 or 4 of those with supporting components, that's a lot less impressive result than 30-40 lb.
Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:00 PM
Its negligible when you are subtracting the stock parts.
Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:42 PM
I realize this is purely dependent on vehicle, but in many applications the removal of the stock battery tray and mounts can generally offset the 2-3 lb. difference in increased cable (especially if you're using that nice looking dry carbon hold-down for mounting in the new location).
Saturday, January 09, 2010 5:34 PM
Who cares about such minute differences in weight, we are not building F1 cars!
Saturday, January 09, 2010 6:44 PM
Discovered how to get rid of the ghey avatars here. http://en.gravatar.com/ Go here and register. By bye lame avatars!
Monday, January 11, 2010 3:15 PM
NERD FIGHT! Man, I thought Mike and Dan were gonna start bitch slapping each other with their pocket protectors.
Monday, January 11, 2010 3:51 PM
Great article....but.....wow, there is so much debate for such a small matter. Here is my setup: I relocate a PC680 into the cabin (on top of the tranny hump)....into an aluminium custom box, bolted down to the floor as well as to the rear metal wall (in my Tacoma truck). I used 0 gauges cables that run thru the tranny hump, underneath the truck all the way to the engine. As far as the ground, I removed the paint for optimal contact and bolted down the wire using stainless steel washers and bolts. Here are some pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/20733247@N06/2380970869/ In the pic the wires are running in the car. Now I re-route the wires underneath the car using those heavy duty metal clamps.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010 8:43 AM
It is mentioned here a few times, but the ground side is every bit as important as the hot side. Depending on which electrical flow theory you subscribe to, power flows from ground to positive in a circuit. Undersized ground side will increase resistance, lowering overall voltage, and amperage capacity. This voltage drop causes "weird" things to happen. In a control circuit it can make the difference between a relay closing and staying open. I chased bad grounds, and changed light bulbs, for 4 years in the Navy,and I had my share of strange things happening with bad, dirty, or corroded grounds.
Saturday, January 16, 2010 8:15 AM
anybody planning on doing this on the cheap should check out www.sepbatteries.com, they sell the batteries cheaper than password JDM and they also sell aluminum brackets for about $25
Saturday, January 16, 2010 5:26 PM
Beware of bootleg chinese stuff though!
Monday, January 18, 2010 12:32 PM
Mike, what is the official stance or "run through terminals" from most sanctioning bodies if any? I've used these for my own vehicle to route to the starter easier and want to make sure I am still in regulation. BTW, great article and love the Odyssey battery. Have one that I picked up some time back and love it. Good work as always.
Monday, January 18, 2010 7:10 PM
I don't think there are any, however, a call to your tech steward never hurts.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010 3:31 AM
I eventually used a steel strap to fix the battery, the box I understand won't hold it in an accident nor will the cheesy wire thing. Just bent sheet metal in the shape I needed like a U with flaps upside-down.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010 4:03 AM
Thank the man, goodbye cheesy avatar! http://en.gravatar.com/ Thanks Mike.
Thursday, December 23, 2010 12:10 PM
Another option for mounting the battery securely is to use the stock tray. That's what I did in an NX I used to own. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_A9eq2D6-7Wg/SEdaI51EedI/AAAAAAAAAas/aJ9Tek6GxAw/s800/aaf.jpg
Thursday, December 23, 2010 12:49 PM
I'd like to add that running the wires on the exterior of the car is probably not a good idea in areas that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. If you can, it is probably a better idea to run the wire through the interior, hiding it under the carpet if possible.
Thursday, December 23, 2010 4:37 PM
MX5 Braille now has Li Batteries, Braille was nice enough to donate the parts so I could do this article, please don't post how not to use their produces here. Perhaps you could do a sweet post on the forum on places to get batteries for relocation.
Thursday, December 23, 2010 4:38 PM
Chriscar, the stock battery try is too weak in my opinion to be safe, unless its in the trunk and totally isolated from the driver and passengers.
Thursday, December 23, 2010 6:02 PM
Enjoyed the article and the discussion, thanks everyone!
Thursday, December 23, 2010 6:04 PM
Nice article. Thanks for resurrecting it. I already knew my battery had to go to the back to make room for the new engine. My main concern is that my car is a hatch back that will continue to be a daily driver. I feel the battery will need to be fully enclosed like a marine battery and I'm not sure I want the cables running through the cab where they could be subject to spills or worse. I am more inclined to run them under the car after running them through rubber tubing or garden hose, then through conduit and protect that with shielding. If there still ends up being a short the circuit breaker should handle it. I will also need to do something to pretty up the mount since it will be visible inside.
Thursday, December 23, 2010 8:34 PM
Hello Guys, Great site you have here! Been following for months, here's my first post / question :D In a small hatchback car (daily-driven) where the trunk is actually part of the cabin, will the battery vapour / gasses cause trouble? On the track there's no issue as the windows are down :) Here's a pic of my car's trunk; it's a Perodua Myvi, a variant of the more common Toyota Passo:- Thanks! -Adrian http://srv.fotopages.com/2/5645386/The-boot-is-spacious-enuff-for-a-golf-bag.jpg
Thursday, December 23, 2010 9:10 PM
Adrian, If you have a conventional battery you have to vent it outside. An NHRA approved battery box will have an external vent. However you should use a sealed gell type battery then you wont need to worry about venting.
Thursday, May 12, 2011 8:59 AM
Found these and picked one up at my local speed shop. They are aluminum instead of plastic. http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/index.cgi/batteryBoxes
 
|
|
MotoIQ Proudly Presents Our Partners:
|