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My Evo 3

Last Post 04-14-2012 02:37 PM by sirnixalot. 87 Replies.

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sirnixalot User is Offline

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11-30-2011 05:05 PM
MOAR PIX! Radiator and intercooler mounted up solid What a view Hotside piping. I ran out of time so i am using one more coupler here than i should. I will get it welded up at a later date. Cold side and intake (spot the huge eff up) O2 housing completed Dumps right before the transfer case map sensor for the apexi boost gauge and the AEM FPR Artsy shot of the alternator relocation

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12-07-2011 04:57 PM
Sorry for the crappy night time iphone pics Oil pressure sensor for my cheaply digital summit gauge Circuit breaker mounted Angle grinder + wire cup tomorrow and a coat of paint. There was some rust so I'm happy I took it up. The wiring looks like a mess but it just needs loom and tape Relocated fuse box. I will be making new fender liners from roof flashing alon with a plywood splitter so it will be protected Down pipe with its new hanger and wide band bung Gm 3 port bcs mounting point One more angle welded and we in business! Engine bay shot with the coil on plug setup Outside is almost complete, need to toss on the passenger side skirt and bleed the brakes Aerocatch locking hood pins. I only installed one side so far. It's a little bit of a pain in the ass because there are multiple layers of aluminum to cut through but other than that it looks great to me! Pin location (had a hole there like it was made for the purpose) My super catch can (filtered and baffled) mocked up. AEM goodness Marine grade 4ga cables, they only had black but that didn't matter as i was covering them with split loom anyway. One goes from the alternator to the fuse box and the other from the starter to the fuse box (connects to either side of the alternator fuse). I have another cable from the previous battery relocation that i will run from the starter to the circuit breaker/battery in the trunk. I have not figured out where i will mount the jumper posts so i will leave them out for now. Final angle on the recirculation port on the intake for the BOV Catch can with the new bracket welded on. If i didn't have to work tomorrow i would probably work on the car through the night. Alas i must pay for these bits some how

Wrecked

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12-31-2011 07:50 AM
Did the Eclipse mount work without any modifications/issues?

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12-31-2011 04:42 PM
The bracket itself will work no problem. The issue is that the rubber mount itself is a different diameter between the Evo and the Eclipse. I kept the Evo bracket with the Ralliart Group A mount for the time being. I will be getting a prothane insert for the eclipse bracket and swapping them out later. It is a 2lb difference lol by the way guys! Here is my hot wife doing the first start up smg.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Sirnixalot/Evo/

GCMBob

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12-31-2011 04:47 PM
knowing nix the way i do...i call photoshop

Wrecked

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01-01-2012 07:09 AM
Yes, I like the 2lb part! It's curious though because I have a Prothane Eclipse insert in my mount and the diameter is the same. Maybe a 1G insert ? The metal bushing part is narrower than the factory mount though. BTW, the OEM filter I was telling you about is actually smaller than the 1 I googled earlier. The filter s only about 2" tall and the part number is 120A040.

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01-01-2012 08:50 AM
Lol Bob...i couldn't tell you the first thing about photoshop. But yes its amazing, finally got to this point with a car. Will see if it actually drives next weekend lol. Wreck, that's weird, i know for sure my Ralliart mount was at least 10mm too small in diameter to work in the Eclipse bracket. The bracket came from a 2g GST so i am not sure if that matters. The tach does not work so i have to trace that wire but i can set the idle rpm with Evoscan for now at least.

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01-03-2012 07:57 PM
So for some odd reason my car eats walbro's. I put back in my stock pump and all is well. 12psi to the world! Open dump wastegates are so freakin cool. I wasn't sold on the idea before but i sure as **** am now. NO spike, 12psi solid as a rock. Finished the exhaust but i still have a leak up front somewhere that i think may be the V bands. Need to tighten them up and check the O2 to turbo bolts haven't loosened. The car is MUCH quieter now but that is still relative because of the leak. Once i get the car up on a lift i will drop the exhaust and paint the welds with the DEI header paint i have Tomorrow it gets a wash and some paint thinner taken to these headlights...i have NO idea how the previous owner of these lights drove at night! OH! My HKS 71C oil cooler thermostat and Blitz rad cap have arrived and will be picked up tomorrow . The rad cap cant work with the Eclipse water neck doh* which is my bad and the oil thermostat will be installed this weekend when the first oil change happens

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01-18-2012 08:06 AM
Well after 2 weeks of chasing fuel system gremlins which turned out to be a clogged filter (face palm) i spun a bearing at around 250miles in. I have some family in orlando at the moment who are coming back monday so i have ordered the following. Wiseco 10.5:1 CR HD pistons Manley H beam rods Clevite 77 bearings ARP main studs Fuelab 818 series fuel filter with a spare element A friend of mine recently went 2.3L in his Evo 8 so i am getting his known good stock crank. Tear down starts friday so i can at least have the motor disassembled and cleaned by monday. Will be interesting to see the difference between a low comp 2.3 and a high comp 2.0 on this bastard Evo X 20g.

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01-18-2012 08:06 PM
Stock JDM Evo8 crank (supposedly 5lbs lighter than the Evo 3/DSM 7bolt crank) I ordered what is supposed to be 10.5:1 Wiseco HD's from Extremepsi but Wiseco's math does not add up to me. I might call them tomorrow to clarify. 85.5mm bore 88mm stroke 1.3mm thick head gasket 47cc combustion chamber -4.5cc dish 0.3mm deck clearance Equals 9.3:1 but some how they are advertising them as 10.5:1 on the DSM motor and 10:1 on the later Evo (same part number). With the same piston the later Evo's 4cc smaller combustion chamber always raises compression half a point. The math works out for the later Evo application but not for the DSM. I could have gotten the JE 10:1's for the same price, alas. That being said the 9.3:1 will be easier for me to tune on pump gas anyway.

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01-31-2012 09:13 PM
So the car is up and running on the new internals and 2.0L. It is little laggier than the 2.3 which was expected. I definitely need to get a 2.3 back in this car at some point! I have to drop the oil pan and reseal it as there is a small leak so i have parked the car until friday afternoon when i take care of that. The Evo 8 exhaust cam works a treat. The 272/280 combo sounds very very lovely at idle.

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02-02-2012 12:01 PM
MUCH better vid of the sound at idle (1200rpm need to work on that and get it down to at least 1000rpm) smg.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Sirnixalot/Evo/ Idling temps The AFCO scirocco rad, twin 750cfm fans and Ralliart thermostat (160F) are working nicely. The oil cooler thermostat is a 71C unit from HKS so all appears to be well on the idling front. I will report back after some logging 3rd gear pulls. The Apexi gauge is in C (oil) and the Summit red LED gauge is in F (coolant)

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02-03-2012 05:56 AM
Attempted to do some idle logging last night but it turned into just sorting out the idle rpm. Today is boost leak testing, setting base timing and redoing the idle so i can log the Low fuel trims properly and rescale the MAF

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02-14-2012 05:32 AM
Getting there . Red line is were i am at currently on 14psi Green line is the last run i did on 25psi before i tore into the car

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02-15-2012 06:00 AM
Well i have some goodies coming some time in March Custom tie rod ends with bump steer adjustment Also the guy who put those together and I have put heads together to sort out something for the lower control arm ball joint/roll center Lathe down 2 of these 1.6875" OD uniball weld cup to 40mm OD, press them into the lower control arm and weld them to the LCA Pop 2 of these in the cups with circlips And lathe down the taper on some 5/8" mono ball studs to match my stock taper and voila! After that i just need to get some 16x1.5mm threaded weld tube adapters and some rod ends to remake my rear camber and toe arms.

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02-28-2012 07:24 PM
So over the weekend i got to my first autocross event to shake the car down. The first 2 runs were plagued with a fuel cut problem which turned out being a loose connection on the fuel pump relay (would disconnect on left turns, probably karma for making fun of nascar). I fixed that and then ended up over driving and getting in a fight with a 4x4 real estate sign Here is a vid http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Sirnixalot/Evo/?action=view¤t=FebTA2012crash.mp4 I have already found a replacement hood and getting a new fender this week. The bumper needs some heat gun and filler treatment. The head light i will leave out for now. Some better pics from the day lol Fingers crossed that the tie rod ends and roll center stuff get here before the end of March so i can get them installed and the car aligned before the next event

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03-19-2012 07:48 PM
Well i got a 3.5Bar map sensor installed Did 2 3rd gear pulls and starting to play with the ecu based boost control. It's definitely going to take quite a few pulls to sort out the boost curve. So far i am only playing with the 3rd gear curve, i will definitely need to get some 1st and 2nd gear logging done before time attack. The boost curve on the virtual dyno chart is using the 3rd gear settings on the right. I changed to the ones on the left to see if i can get the 16psi straight across. We will see tomorrow. Oh yeah....i got the body work finished for the most part, the head light i got is missing 2 mounting studs. I can't be bothered to make one light from 2 so next month i will be getting a set of headlights from ebay It needs another 5 cans of semigloss and it will be finished!

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03-22-2012 01:20 PM
Half of my soon to be roll center adjustment kit. I still have to get the cups lathed down to 40mm OD with a 3mm lip at the top and i am still waiting on the studs

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03-26-2012 07:34 PM
Well I think lucked out on the taper on the studs Stock is 7.8* taper (if my math is correct, small end is 15mm, large end is 17mm with 15mm distance between those 2 points) New stud is 7* taper The new stud with no spacers drops the control arm by 5/8" or around 16mm. I think i might not get away without cutting the bottom of the stud since i am running 16" wheels. Install height will have 2" of the stud length out the bottom of the arm so i might have to take like 3/4" off Think i can get away without having to buy and ship a $100 reamer that i will only use twice?

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03-28-2012 05:59 PM
MUCH better! Tomorrow they get welded

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