Well i had a whole essay typed out and my pc decided to restart on me...alas.

It's a old busted 95 Mitsubishi Evolution 3 which i am slowly modifying it to suit my taste and autocross habits.

The day after i bought it.  Came with Ralliart front and rear roll stop engine mounts, Cusco Zero2's, HKS SSQ, hard intercooler piping kit, homo Taiwanese so crosseyed they are useless at night projector headlights, a whiteline 20mm rear sway & endlinks, Exedy Stage 1 organic clutch and EBC redstuff brake pads all around.  It also came with some goodridge braided lines, rear Superflex lower control arm bushings, Ralliart diff bushings and Megan Rear upper camber arms uninstalled.

I fixed the headlights so i could see at night and installed all the bushings.  Not shortly after all of the bushings were swapped out to ones from Superflex and an Autometer boost gauge added.  Being 15 years old every bolt for the suspension was rusted to the inner metal sleeve on the stock rubber bushings so they had to be cut out.  There is NO part of the suspension that is not covered in anti-seize now! 

After the headlights were fixed and the Taiwanese intercooler that goes with the hard piping kit was installed and given a light coat of flat black.

Next up was a Megan O2 housing and downpipe meant for a 2G GSX Eclipse and an AEM wideband.

New wheels and tires, Enkei RPF01 and Toyo 225/50R16

A local SE-R was parting out so i grabbed the Walbro 225lhp hp fuel pump and old school Greddy Profec b from it and installed those.  I also got wind of the Evo 8 Ecu conversion so i got one of those and a used Boomslang patch harness for a 2g Eclipse.  Mystajoe on here scrutinized my wiring which was much needed because i kept reading the pin diagrams backwards.  The car has been running on the Evo 8 ecu, FIC 750 injectors and the Evo 3 MAF for about 2 months now.  I have recently installed and Evo 8 knock sensor to hopefully cure some phantom knock issues and i have an Evo 8 MAF waiting to go in as well.  3rd gear pull in Virtual Dyno says 300 ish whp which is at 22psi creeping to 25psi. 

I traded my stock seat for a well used Sparco Corsa and got a Schroth Profi 2 6 point to go with it.

I got it in my head that since i had a set of RX7 4 pot calipers i would make them fit.  After doing some measurments i picked some 294mm diameter 05 Altima rotors.  After some trial fitments i needed spacers so i had some made up that were hub and wheel centric along with longer studs.  I also did a non-ABS conversion using the OEM hardlines from a Lancer GLS in the junk yard with an Evo 3 RS non-ABS proportioning valve.  I have the best pedal feel ever.

Only other plans for this year are to install the USDM Evo 8 valvesprings, retainers, rocker arms and lifters along with some HKS 272 cams which will most likely require me to change the clutch and am leaning towards the Fidanza 3.2 and their 8lb flywheel.  I am also looking into an O2 dump for the wastegate as even with a GMCBob modified actuator for increased open throw i am still getting creep.

Thanks for looking.  I have learned alot on here especially in regards to brakes and hope to continue sponging great information and contributing where i can.

probably right....pains me to see the one driving around with all the brakes etc i had.

Anyways did some 3rd gear pulls on my private drive way to get some logs. The logs from when i was on the Evo3 knock sensor was giving me phantom knock all over the place (i'm talking 25-30 counts), once the Evo8 knock sensor was installed this dropped to sub 10 count mainly at 4500-5000rpm and some at 7000. Also from 5000-7500rpm AFR's were around 12:1 to 12.5:1 so we richened that up to mid 11's. After an hour or so we had it pretty much sorted however we think my plugs may need changing so we left it at that for the night.

Tomorrow i will be installing a new set of NGK BR7ES plugs and gapping them to 0.8mm.

Just to show a progression

25psi for both graphs, only change was the knock sensor


25psi again with some editing to take out the knock and richen up the upper range


The Evo 8 ecu is the best thing i have done for this car yet mainly because i can be a ricer and compare imaginary dyno graphs lol

Great build!  Very well thought out.  Keep us updated!

Thank you

I am not much of a drag racer but there is a meet on sunday so i am preparing for that. In the spirit of Mitsubishi guys making up arbitrary records like "first 2005 Evo with the stock spare tire with 35psi in it and an mp3 player in the 10's" the local record for a stock turbo evo 3 is 7.749 in the 1/8th. I PLAN to beat that, whether or not i will depends on me.

I changed out the valve cover tonight to one with a single 7/8 vent to a modified ebay/greddy "style" knock off catch can. The catch can has a single 7/8 inlet with holes drilled in the tube and surrounded by coarse stainless scrubber material. The 2 x 1/2" lines will be run to the intake for the vacuum effect.

Not the best pic but here is a mock up (this is with the old Evo 3 MAF)

I got the idea from evom

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-ho...-tube.html

I thought everyone used bottles for catch cans. Maybe just a Caribbean thing!

Few small updates.

I am in the process of converting my current Tephra V5.10 90550001 rom over to a Tephra V7 96530706 rom for the big maps. Smoothing these higher resolution maps is taking some time but i think it will be worth it once i get back out to logging again.

GMCBob built me a new intake, still needs a recirculation tube for the BOV and 2 holes drilled for the catch can but its miles better than whats on there now.


I am also pestering him in regards to doing a new hot pipe for my new intercooler, an older circa 2007 AGP Race intercooler for an SRT4 that uses a 24x12x3.5 Spearco bar and plate core. Damned thing has to weigh 20lbs, not pleased about putting that at the forward most point on the car but it must be done to replace the chinacooler. I am hoping the upgrade helps keep the IAT's down so i can combat some knock i am seeing near peak torque.

I am stuck between keeping the compressor housing in its current orientation and making a J to point the discharge downwards and then do a 90* to the passenger side or reclocking the compressor and just doing a 90* bend off that. Reclocking the compressor would involve having new mounting points welded onto the compressor housing for the actuator similar to what RRE used to do back in the day. Reclocking would keep the hotpipe away from the exhaust manifold and remove about 12-18" and a 180* bend from the pipe run.





Stock orientation with a J pipe


I think i know which way i am leaning and that involves finding some aluminum rod stock i can drill and tap and take to the welders because Bob can't weld aluminum ....yet

Posted By Nikko on 02-16-2011 12:48 PM




Nix has a rare male project car.

got a fair bit done today, unfortunately i forgot the camera in the car

The dash, carpet and firewall sound deadener are out. That meant removing the steering column and pedals boxes.

I also got all of the wiring for the front door lock, window motor, speaker, ABS and A/C related wiring removed from the dash harness.

I was going to go through the harness going to the rear of the car but the only things i can think of that i would take out are the radio antenna, wiper and ABS wires which would save me all of 3 grams. Not much return on investment there.

Tomorrow i mock up the intercooler mounting brackets so they can be welded and i can permanently mount that.

I am considering going with an older MR2 power steering pump so i can remove all the accessories on the front of the motor. What are your thoughts on mounting it under the dash behind the glove box? The older pump has the reservoir seperate from the pump meaning i could keep the reservoir in the bay so it would still be easily fillable and the weight of the pump would be more towards the middle of the car.

Tomorrow i plan on seeing how much of the sound deadening tar i can chip off the floor.

I am not sure if it will be worth while attempting any seam welding as i do not plan on taking out the front and rear glass and i won't be able to do the underside of the car.

OH...i almost forgot, i manage to get my paws on a CHEAP used 2.3L short block "around " 5k miles on it, Probe Industries 8.5:1 compression 85.5mm bore pistons, OEM rods and OEM 4G64 crank.  I will be getting a 0.9mm thick Cometic and milling the head 0.5mm to get it back to 9:1 CR.  Other plans are to refresh it with new bearings and rings.  All thats left is oil & water pump, gaskets, Jay racing alternator relocation kit, OEM main bolts, flywheel bolts, exhaust manifold studs/nuts and ARP rod bolts.

Well i got all of the misc stuff i was waiting on.

Turns out the Mirage regulators almost bolt in. Their mounting points need to be moved down about 1/2" as the window wasn't rolling up all the way at the end of the cable travel.

I have hit a minor snag on the manifold but i think i have found my way around it. I am used to seeing exhaust manifold flanges come with the exhaust ports undersized so you butt weld the pipe to the flange then port them out. The flange i got from RRE is an exact replica of the exhaust manifold gasket, there is about a 2-3mm difference all the way around.



I stuck some 1.5" sch40 pipe in a bench vise to oval it to get an idea of what i am working with.


Amout 2mm on either side and it looks like the ID of the oval will be a smidgen smaller than the stock exhaust port.




I plan on having a guy that works for my uncles who has been welding for 15-20 years to sit the transitions about half way in the flange (like in the pic above but obviously centered) and weld them on the back side of the flange then fill from the face of the flange back towards the oval so i can port it appropriately. Anyone for see anything wrong with that?