I think you can experiment with rear camber, on FR cars its always a trade off between mid turn speed and exit speed. More camber might help you mid turn but hurt you on exit and exit speed is usually where things are won. Where in the corner is the rear end stepping out?  What throttle and brake condition?

You can also play with rear toe a little as well as the rear bar. What sort of diff are you running? This can be adjusted as well. I am asking these things because you very rarely have too much front grip on an FR car!

Figgured id add some content to this sinceI did some work

Got the correct rear bearing to replace the traction rod bushing after ordering the wrong one from japan a while back. I decided not to change out the lower control arm bushing as the ones in there now are in good shape with no real play and are a ball type bearing already..

Started byt pulling the center of the old bushing out. This is made tons easier by taking off the rotor and not having a dust sheild.



The centre will move alot befor it tears out



after the centre pulls out cleaned the rubber away



and cut a slot with a hacksaw and beat it out with a punch. Then cleaned the surface with some sandpaper and a cleaning wheel on a dremel.



Then i oiled up all the surfaces and proceded to pull the new bearing in place with a long grade 11 bolt and a paice of scap steel i had to ensure everything went in straight,



After is pulled in flush i put back in the other spacer insert and job done.



My suspention is officially rubberless now. So i cant blame crap rubber on my shitty driving now.

I am working through some issues with the quick steer RCA with the maker and I should have some extended tie rods with extra threads on and the RCA's on in a couple of weeks. Im hoping to get some solid steering rack mounts made up also.

Ok here is one for you guys. I stripped out some wireing from the car and gutted the doors and took a few more things off and dropped an additional 30 lbs out of the car. One area i could lose some weight is the gas tank. From factork the tank is very well chambered and baffled so it never has issues with surge. below is a picture of a spare tank. It weighs 40lbs.

as you can see it is a hump tank. I was thinking why not cut it in half and lose half the weight? I never use that much gas anyway.

Here is a pic of my current weights with me in it of course. the cross weight is pretty decent as i havent tuned it yet.

This gives me a 50.6% cross weight.

To get a closer aproximation of what cutting half the weight off would be in terms of weight distribution i added a 20 lb weight right over the area that i would be losing weight and whatever it increased the corner weights by, i would subtract from the above numbers.

In the end it gives me a drop of .1 from the cross weight and drops 20 lbs. I also have a stoptech setup coming for the front that will drop an aditional 20lbs from the front and give me a 50.5 cross weight and a 55f 45r split.

Is cutting the gastank in half something i sould bother with? If so are there anythings i should look out for before i blow myslef up?

Did some more research and ran a few more numbers. I think this is probably a decent idea. After cleaning out the tank it seems you should back purge the tank with Argon or some other ineart gas so it doesent go kablewiy as gas fumes tend to linger forever in the tank and come out of the pores when heated.

Anyone know if i need to keep that vent valve on the top? i dont have emitions on the car and would think the overflow (small pipe) would take care of any spill over.

Ive gone ahead and cut the tank and have a fabricator with experience welding tanks going to weld it up for me.

Another place ive seen people save weight is they cut the under skeleton out of a CF hood. It seems to me that the under sceleton doesent even touch the top layer and it only really helps in twisting stiffness. Anyone have any insight into this?

I would not do it, the hood could end up balloning upward.  I have seen this happen.

Fair enough, going to look into getting some FRP flared fenders from chargespeed or something. Mine are a little hefty with the Flares on them. need to save up a few $$ though.

got my bumpteers correction/ RCA/ Quicksteer ball joints installed.

ive been tossing up wheather i should get these

they are ikeya formula and will give me more caster. the car really doesent self center well as Mike predicted but i dont really need it to either.  hmmm. at 58,000 Yen it isnt a cheap buy.