Toyota Supra 2JZ-GTE engine build, Part 2: Boost Logic oil pump and Fluidampr harmonic crank pulley
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Modified by KC 2JZ-GTE engine block

Our engine block still rests on an engine stand at Modified by KC in Kansas City, MO (don't worry, the cylinder taping was removed for picture purposes only).  Once we receive our anxiously awaited hand-built parts from Power House Racing and Hypertune, the cylinder head will be completed and married to the block.  

 

EXTREME ENGINE TECH 2JZ-GTE; Part 2 – Good Vibrations and Better Lubrication

by Pablo Mazlumian

 

In the first part of our engine build we discussed the engine block internals, including JE asymmetrical pistons, K1 Technologies connecting rods and ARP main studs.  Follow the link to catch up on our 2JZ build:  Extreme Engine Tech: 2JZ-GTE; Part 1 - More Strength, Less Weight

Modified by KC hasn't been able to put the cylinder head on yet because we're waiting on a couple of hand-built parts, one of them an intake manifold from Hypertune in Australia, and the other an exhaust manifold from Power House Racing.  These parts take time to build but should be well worth the wait.   We're expecting them any day now.

Once we have the parts in hand, Jeff Gerner from FRP Engineering will finish port-matching the cylinder head to each component, and Brad Noland from Noland Cylinder heads will finish assembling the head with our Ferrea valvetrain and new factory shimless lifters we got from Champion Toyota.  At this point, the rest of the process should start flowing a little more quickly.

In the meantime, let me share the details on a couple of important components that we needed to order for the block.  Sure, the motor is—in loose terms of the phrase—"bullet proof" with its new internals.  But, to be fair, even with proper tuning no engine is bullet proof without the proper lubrication and vibration damping.  And, while neither of these subjects had anything to do with our melted piston in Part 1, it doesn't mean we were going to be problem-free several miles down the road had this not happened.  In fact, upon disassembly we came to find out that a full-locked engine doomsday was probably just around the corner!

 

cracked Supra 2JZ-GTE factory oil pump gear

When any modification is done to the engine, the natural harmonic frequency and magnitude can change, and bad things can happen if a proper crankshaft damper—a.k.a. "harmonic balancer"—is not installed.   With a previously installed aftermarket lightweight crank pulley, it was evident there was enough vibration to cause some damage after just 10k miles.  This is a shot of the oil pump gear on our factory oil pump.  Notice the nice crack. 

 

stock oil pump cracked gear 2JZ-GTE Supra turbo

A quick peek and the above gear crack didn't look so bad at first.  Hey, it was pumping oil fine and who's to say it would have stopped?  Problem, however.  Pictured here is what the pump housing looks like with the gear removed.   Notice the grinding.  Sure, this was probably robbing a bit of horsepower, but the worst thing is the gear was most likely ready to seize!  Anyone care to guess what happens when oil quits circulating?  This was a huge find. 

 

A proper amount of mass is required to properly dampen crank vibration, so re-installing a lightweight pulley was not an option. Rubber factory dampers are effective, but they're only safe on a stock motor.  The problem is, an engine is so dynamic that any changes, like pistons and rods—or even an intake and exhaust, according to Fluidampr—will change the vibration frequency and/or magnitude, and often move these out of the range that a rubber damper can handle.  

Our solution was to souce a crank damper from Fluidampr.  At around $400, these units are a bargain, especially when compared to the factory, rubber-based units which sell for nearly $300! 

 

 

fluidampr 2JZ-GTE crank pulley damper

Needing a high-quality damper, we turned to Fluidampr, which boasts a unique crank damping method that is race proven.  Instead of making one generic damper for a variety of cars, Fluidampr designs and tests each of their dampers for the specific make/model and engine application.  Fluidampr tests their units in racing environments as well.  

 

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Comments
destrux
destruxlink
Thursday, December 13, 2012 11:17 AM
Looking forward to the rest of this build. Always love seeing the special touches the seasoned experts add to a build. You just don't see this info in other magazines.
Cursed
Cursedlink
Thursday, December 13, 2012 1:25 PM
The most likely reason for the failure of the oil pump is a poor line hone where the crank is not within spec from a vertical alignment perspective. I have personally seen this once on a 2JZ where binding would occur due to improper tolerances and the machinist indicated this was normal, he was wrong and just like this build, the engine only ran for 1k miles.

Best of luck on the 2jz, I'm a big fan and work on them most weekends!
Tech@EPR
Tech@EPRlink
Thursday, December 13, 2012 11:16 PM
I've been doing oil pump mods for over 8 years now as well as crankshaft modifications. Its good to know others are on board with doing improvements to stock components. Its unfortunate though that many in the community frown on these doings due to ignorance.
BenFenner
BenFennerlink
Friday, December 14, 2012 5:28 AM
The power increase from a proper crankshaft damper could also be due to more correct ignition timing events. If the crank throws farthest away from the flywheel are allowed to twist you're potentially moving ignition timing by a couple degrees I bet?
Lessen the torsional vibrations and you're getting more accurate timing at those far cylinders.

It's one theory anyway.
Protodad
Protodadlink
Friday, December 14, 2012 9:32 AM
Man, I love to see these detailed engine builds.

That being said, is there any chance at MotoIQ doing a series on how to properly build a blueprinted/balanced engine? I mean really get down to what to measure and how to assemble an engine properly.
Jasonrg77
Jasonrg77link
Friday, December 14, 2012 11:58 AM
The basic stuff can be had from many mod magazine websites.
http://www.evans-tuning.com/support/tech/article/how-to-build-a-gsr-engine/http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/1999/10/400horse/index.php
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/51578_small_block_chevy_assemble/
What isn't found on sites like above can be found in the factory service manual for the specific car, or specialty books on the particular engine series.
The specialty here at Motoiq seems to be highlighting those shops that take the work a few steps beyond that. Many things those people do would probably be considered proprietary information. The objective here is to bring light to ideas racers need to process and provide direction to skilled professionals that offer the appropriate services.
Also while a basic primer would be great they deal with so many platforms here it would be prohibitively expensive to cover them all. They strike a very thought out balance here, and the growth in readership reflects that.
Pablo Mazlumian
Pablo Mazlumianlink
Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:09 AM
@destrux,Jasonrg77--thank you.
@Protodad--I wouldn't be surprised if someone from the MIQ staff eventually did this. sounds like a huge amount of work.
@Tech@EPR--agreed
@cursed--thank you.However, this oil pump actually never failed to pump oil. Upon disassembly our bearings were great. In this case, the improper crank damping (or pretty much lack thereof) was very likely the culprit.
thanks for reading y'all!
Cursed
Cursedlink
Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:30 AM
@ Pablo Mazlumian -- Any idea which dampener was on the engine prior to this rebuild? The most common unit for the 2JZ is the ATI unit which per my experience leaves a little to be desired. The timing markings are never correct on the ATI and always require double checking and they are usually 5 degrees off or so.
Pablo Mazlumian
Pablo Mazlumianlink
Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:44 AM
I've heard decent things behind ATI but never used them. The unit prior to this was a Boost Logic lightweight crank pulley, but it was on there since around 2003 and probably should have been rebuilt. Plus, there were two of 9500+rpm mis-shifts along the way over the years (my fault but also a shifter adjustment notch problem I plan to take care of in the future) that probably didn't help the vibration cause.
Cursed
Cursedlink
Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:59 AM
@ Pablo Mazlumian -- Good to know, I currently run a BL crank damper on my 2JZ 3.4 race engine. The pully probably has 5k miles on it total since new. Probably a good idea that I replace the older BL for something newer design. I've installed many ATI's over the years and its nice to see someone else producing dampers for our beloved 2jz's.

Looking forward to your progress! Adam

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