Project Scion FR-S Testing GReddy's Cold Air Intake!

By Mike Kojima


The Scion FR-S is a pretty exciting car to be involved in.  It has single handedly given our industry a shot in the arm and parts are rapidly being developed for the car.  Our FR-S is being worked on fast, so fast it is kind of a blur as we were cramming a lot in just a few days to get the car ready for the SEMA show.

In our last edition of the Project we tested the GReddy EVO 3 exhaust and now we are going to test GReddy's cold air intake.  In reality this happened on the same day, but we didn't have time to write much about it during the SEMA and PRI show scrambles.  So we are now trying to catch up!


For more on Project Scion FR-S look here:  MotoIQ Project Scion FR-S


The GReddy intake is a really nicely done part with molded intake tubes and a full air box that takes cold air from the front of the car.  The intake is much less restrictive than the stock system which we will show you in a second.


The GReddy air filter is a cone shaped washable gauze part with much greater filtering surface area than stock.


Here is the waffle looking stock filter.  The GReddy filter has at least 50% more surface area.


Yes, even we read instructions sometimes.  The installation of the GReddy intake is relatively easy but requires a bit more disassembly of the car than usual.


In the name of being in a hurry, Martin Gonzales and I scramble to quickly put the intake on.


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Wednesday, December 05, 2012 9:55 PM
3 freakin resonators on the stock intake? Sheesh....
Mike Kojima
Mike Kojimalink
Wednesday, December 05, 2012 10:00 PM
And the stupid sound increasing tube. Make it quiet and then make it loud.Some engineer needs to be kicked. Or maybe someone in product planning?
Wednesday, December 05, 2012 10:28 PM
Ford has one of those "noise makers" on the new Taurus SHO. I personally can't justify going through the design and manufacturing expense to quite the engine and then trying to undo it with that thing, though ford sells theirs as an accessory option, scion gives it to you as original equipment... Yay scion?
Wednesday, December 05, 2012 11:29 PM
No way, boo Scion! Ford is making "no stupid noise-maker" the default whereas Scion is forcing it upon you. With the Ford you have to pay extra to have it, with the Scion you have to pay extra to get rid of it after purchase.

It'll be interesting to come back in 18-24 months and see what the cats at MotoIQ will have done to this thing once they're finished pussyfooting around with, admittedly very nice, OEM-grade bolt-ons.

What project FR-S needs is some AEM computing power. Smother the thing in sensors, beef up the chassis and for Christ's sake, make with the forced induction already!

I know that in the right hands (the Nerd Alliance) it shouldn't be a problem to leverage some serious badassery out of the FR-S. I mean look at what they where able to do with the Nissan Sentra SE-R: a similarly marketed sport compact in it's day. The MotoIQ Sentra was a tire-smoking monstrosity capable of embarrassing cars with serious pedigree.

Think of that same methodical, over-engineered approach applied to the FR-S! I mean no offense guys, but the Sentra is an econo-box crap-can compared the the FR-S in terms of sheer chassis layout.

My money is on this thing one day being a boost-huffing road rocket with performance of giant-killing proportions.

Nyborg Garage
Nyborg Garagelink
Thursday, December 06, 2012 3:13 AM
Very nice.

wounder why the torque curve is so uneven.

Maybe a weird intakemanifold/header combo, or just bad tuning?

I think a modern direct injected engine with lots of computer adjustable cam gear should have less than 10wtq diffrence in the "ups and down", not over 25wlb-ft.

From 4000rpm and up it looks "normal", but below 4000 it does not look good the way I see it.
Dusty Duster
Dusty Dusterlink
Thursday, December 06, 2012 4:17 AM
You don't pay extra for the "sound induction tube" on a Ford. Project Mustang 5.0 had it from the factory, with no way to option it out.

FYI, the easiest way to remove it is to simply put a large vacuum cap on the stock airbox tube and unbolt the "sound induction tube" from the firewall. Fortunately, the tube is not easily visible, so I've kept it in so far.
Thursday, December 06, 2012 11:40 AM
whats the metal thingy on the rad support on page 4 second pic from the bottom?
Mike Kojima
Mike Kojimalink
Thursday, December 06, 2012 12:35 PM
Optic RPM sensor for the dyno.
Friday, December 07, 2012 10:02 AM
@Mike Kojima

From reading and watching some of the interviews with Tada, it seems that they did the sound tube because they couldn't get the level of engine noise they wanted in the cabin for "driver involvement" while sticking to some more restrictive laws on acceptable exterior noise levels in some other countries. May be bs, but it's the official story.

On a car with stock intake/exhaust, I don't mind it. I'll likely remove mine as soon as I get a decent sounding exhaust and intake though.
Mike Kojima
Mike Kojimalink
Friday, December 07, 2012 12:17 PM
Thats odd because we think the car is a little loud!
Dan Barnes
Dan Barneslink
Sunday, December 09, 2012 8:32 AM
This is a good first step. For anyone just wanting to get rid of the honkus tube, there's no reason you can't make a round plug for the intake tube. Would only help if the inside end of the plug was shaped to match the wall of the tube. Irregularities on the outside radius of a bend are especially turblence-inducing.

I'm waiting for someone to figure out how to make the torque curve look like a K20 without adding a second mechanical device with its own, independent VE curve (a.k.a. supercharger).

I also want to see someone mess with the header. The stock one has long, tubular runners, but the picture I've seen


looks like at least with the lower pair of primaries, the right-side tube just about tees into the left-side tube. Would be interesting to see what a really nice merge does for power. And maybe smoother transitions in and out of the cat would help, too.

My ideal FR-S for DD use is 20-30 hp at the wheels gained with a K20-like torque curve, and about 100 lb out of the car between wheels, tires, brakes, suspension, intake, exhaust and battery.
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