22

MMR supplied a slew of specialty parts for our Coyote build. Pictured is among some of the most important. The Coyote oil pump and crank chain drive gears are made from powdered metal. Upgrading to MMR’s billet steel versions help provide a level of security, especially on supercharged engines.

Attached to the front side of the crankshaft is the lower chain drive gear. Like the factory oil pump gears, these are made from powdered metal. MMR’s gear is billet steel and will better survive high-horsepower engine applications, especially those with a supercharger where crankshaft loads increase considerably. Another smart upgrade when running a supercharger – especially with stiffer valve springs – are a set of MMR heavy duty secondary chains. This secondary chain links both the intake and exhaust cams and are subjected to high levels of stress.

Moving up is MMR’s billet chain guides. Ford’s factory guides are made from plastic and are known to deflect. This deflection can cause a variance in cam timing. The MMR guides are made from billet aluminum and available with new wear strips.

Ford has repeatedly changed their minds on oil squirters. The reality is that aftermarket forged pistons typically don’t need them and are usually blocked off. These oil squirters have been known to fail for no reason as well, which leads to a reduction in oil pressure. MMR’s oil squirter block offs should be installed ahead of the crankshaft and will help provide additional operating oil pressure.

 

A quick look at our valvetrain. Comp Cams NSR Stage III blower cams offer 236 degrees of duration on the intake and 243 exhaust at .050-inch lift. Intake valve lift is .492 with exhaust being .453 on a 128 degree lobe separation angle. Even though valve springs and valves are not required for these camshafts, we opted for a Comp 26125TS-KIT kit that includes new valve seals, springs, locks and tool steel retainers. Ferrea provided stock diameter replacement stainless steel valves.


Our Build

 

 

Short-Block Build - $1,900 to $7,500+

 

Time for the fun stuff. When it comes to making north of around 500 rear-wheel horsepower on an F150 engine, 600 on a '11-14 Mustang, and 700 on a '15-17, it’s time to consider building a bottom end. The factory crank in both engine variants are forged 4340 and are nearly bulletproof. The stock cranks can be reused or a new one can be purchased at an insanely low price. Budget rods, new bearings, and pistons can be an affordable means to a strong short-block, but keep in mind, it's likely you will need a .010-over piston after the used bores have been cleaned up. Have your machinist verify this ahead of a rebuild.

For our build, we opted for a new BOSS 302 crankshaft from Summit, K1 Technologies H-beam connecting rods, and JE Pistons. The rods are made from 4340 steel and come with ARP 2000 rod bolts. H-Beam in design, the K1 connecting rods are finished in the United States and offered at a very affordable price level. The stock Coyote crankshaft is also forged from 4340 steel and has proven itself well north of 1,500 horsepower, making it one of the best factory cranks available on the market.

 

Our rotating assembly consists of JE Pistons, K1 Technologies H-beam rods, and new BOSS 302 crankshaft. The factory 4340 forged BOSS crank is only $312 from Summit Racing and has been battle-proven to over 2,000 horsepower.

Our JE Pistons have been customized to a 10.5:1 compression ratio, so that after block and head decking, we will likely end up closer to 11:1. The pistons are symmetrical in design and are .010 oversized. They have been optioned with JE’s thermal barrier and skirt coating. Since our engine is heading to a road race car, we wanted to minimize piston fatigue with help from the thermal barrier. JE’s Tuff Skirt coating helps with skirt-to-bore break-in and acts as a dry film lubricant to aid any momentary oil pressure drops.

 

While you can install MMR’s oil squirter block off plates with the crankshaft in the engine, it’s significantly easier performing this task while it’s out. The factory oil squirters are designed for the factory cast pistons and are not needed with high performance racing pistons, like our JEs.

 

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Comments
Odelagt
Odelagtlink
Monday, April 23, 2018 12:30 PM
No trips to WPC treat any of these parts?
JR
JRlink
Tuesday, April 24, 2018 6:29 AM
For drag cars I guess it makes sense to remove the oil squirters, but on a road race car, even though you are using forged pistons, wouldn't it be nice to have the oil squirters to keep the piston temps more uniform?
Hexer
Hexerlink
Saturday, April 28, 2018 10:32 AM
Circuit and endurance engines have 2-4 squirters for every piston, none go with cast pistons...
BANFSTC
BANFSTClink
Wednesday, May 02, 2018 3:41 PM
There is a lot of good information in this article, so I apologize for continuing about the same topic, but I'd like more info on the oil squirters.

I understand not wanting to go through the challenge of ADDING oil squirters, but removing some that are already designed/installed implies that there is some detriment to having them (in this application, at least). So, what is the HARM in having them?
Mark Gearhart
Mark Gearhartlink
Wednesday, May 16, 2018 5:25 PM
The factory Coyote oil squirters are known for failing, even when the skirt notches are correct. In addition, at high rpm the oil intended to keep the pistons cooled was over accumulating in the pin area and hurt performance. No BOSS 302s came with squirters.
BANFSTC
BANFSTClink
Thursday, May 17, 2018 3:00 PM
That makes sense to me. Thanks for the info!
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