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Following the measure twice and cut once philosophy, I then transferred my newspaper template onto a cardboard cereal box. I made sure that I made it a little bit bigger than I needed. You'll see why that is important shortly.
HeatShield  Products recommends using heavy duty scissors or a utility knife for cutting. Most of my cutting was done with scissors but I did find a utility knife to be very useful. My dust mask and gloves came from Amazon medical supplies. The gloves allowed for great mobility and, if torn, were easily replaced. Plus you cannot beat the ability to feel what you're doing with these medical gloves. The mask - perhaps I'll be picked up as an extra on one of the millions of prime time hospital dramas currently on T.V. - but if it's good enough for stopping germs and bugs I figured they would be ideal for this application.There are a couple of layers of cardboard down on my workbench so that the knife blade does not score the top. While I call it a work bench, my wife calls it her freezer and gets rather irritated with me if I damage it. And really irritated when I have a ton of stuff piled on the lid so that she cannot get anything out to prepare a meal.The HeatShield Products Header Armor is really have and thick material. After cutting out the material using the template (which you purposely made at least 1 cm or 1/2" larger), trim the insulation off with the utility knife without cutting through the foil. Fold that over to provide a nice solid edge.Fitting the Header Armor into place check to ensure that the template was accurate. Adjust if necessary. If anything, I had a bit too much material so had to adjust it so that the surplus material was not going to cause any problems. HeatShield Products is very clear with the instructions that the Header Armor is only to cover the top and sides of the exhaust manifold.Included in the Header Armor package was a small spool of wire that is used to literally wire and fasten the Header Armor into place. Mark the Header Armor foil close to the outer exhaust piple. Then simply push the wire through the foil and wrap it around the outer pipe. You need to make the insertion point close to the header pipe so that when you tighten the wire it doesn't slice through the Header Armor.
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Comments
stylngle2003
stylngle2003link
Friday, May 18, 2018 9:26 AM
Frank - very nice writeup. Will be interested to see how your "after" data stacks up against the fall trackday.
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Friday, May 18, 2018 1:55 PM
also looking foward to results!
Crousti
Croustilink
Friday, May 18, 2018 11:15 PM
Any idea about the total cost ?
engineered
engineeredlink
Sunday, May 20, 2018 5:24 PM
Looking forward to the after data. Cost estimates would be nice too.
stylngle2003
stylngle2003link
Monday, May 21, 2018 6:24 AM
Also, just a thought, the charge pipes may benefit from a coating which increases their emissivity, as well as heat shielding to prevent radiant heat absorption from heat sources in the engine bay (rad/coolers/manifold). Not saying the applied shielding won't help, because it probably will, but just wondering if them being wrapped will instead keep heat in the pipes? I wish I still had my copy of Turbo magazine when Mike did all of the testing on coatings for the SR20 in the red sentra. I wore that thing out!
nissannx
nissannxlink
Wednesday, May 23, 2018 5:44 AM
Thanks for the comments! Like everything else with the NX GTi-R, there were some other changes that I'll be reporting about before the 'after' data. But that is coming soon. I just got back from the mountain and I was pleased with how I controlled the heat. As I'm in Canada the costs will be different but let me see about that.

Interesting point about keeping the heat in, stylngle. I'll have to keep an eye on that.
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