Here you can see what it looks like once we inserted the larger connector through the panel.

We would need to repeat the notching process on the other two holes. Keeping the notches at the top of the hole means all the connectors can be easily inserted the same way. You might be wondering why there is only one notch despite there being three retention pins. You can insert the bottom side of the connector through the hole at an angle and get the bottom two pins through, and then rotate the top in through the notch to get the third through.


Here Tom is adding the notches for the other two holes.

In addition to the notches, we would also need to accommodate the mounting of the connectors via their flanges.


Before you start drilling/enlarging holes and modifying things, make sure that the bolts you use on the inside of the flange are small enough to allow the mating connector to fully seat and lock.

The circular milspec connectors don’t just plug in. The retention pins on one side are mated to a slot in the other side of the connector, and then the connector shell is rotated to lock things into place. If your bolts are too tall, the shell will not be able to fully rotate down into its locked and seated position. Ask us how we know…


We continued along the inside of the passenger-side floor area, utilizing the factory Toyota harness mounting locations as available.

Simple zip ties were used. There are two bundles here. One is the main power bundle for the lights, fuel pumps, and fuel level sensor. The other is the wheel speed sensor harness for the rear two wheel speed sensors.


The rear bulkhead connection used both a DT and a circular milspec.

Since we only had 12 connections, and since we had higher power requirements due to the fuel pumps, we used a less expensive DT. The circular milspec is used for the wheel speed sensor harness.

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Posted in: Project SC300
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Thursday, April 05, 2018 1:55 PM
What sanctioning body do you run under where they allow the cage to tie into the door sill and not all the way to the floor?
Thursday, April 05, 2018 2:03 PM
reading further...

No knee bar or wheel intrusion bars required either?

I like the little bulkhead plates you made. And slick work on the wheel switches. Wouldn't the stock column and power tilt be one of the first things to turf on the pudgy Z30 chassis?
Friday, April 06, 2018 9:14 AM
Having a loose cord hanging around is kind of annoying no? There isn't a more elegant solution like a factory style clockspring? Or even adapting the factory clockspring assuming it has enough terminals?
Sunday, April 08, 2018 9:36 AM
The only standing starts I've seen in NASA have been with CMC and AI. Not sure if it's different in your region? There's a lot of cool stuff going onto this car, but not a lot of mention of what class it's going into. You need to be careful you din't get stuck in SU where you get decimated. What's the extent of your track experience?
Sunday, April 15, 2018 2:24 PM
@SM_Clay72 The car is being built for NASA ST-2 and the cage was built using the CCR - https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/document/document/282/2018.3.pdf

See page 58 (15.6.13 -- Mounting Points) -- "The roll cage shall be mounted to the floor area, which includes rocker panels".

Here's a side view:

If you're saying that this cage configuration is not legal based on NASA's rules then I'm going to have a sour day at tech! I'll get in touch with NASA SE tech leadership to find out.

As for your question about knee bar or wheel intrusion bar, you can see neither is required by the CCR. However, I am maintaining the factory dashboard support bar and it is tied into the "forward hoops".

Keeping the stock column and power tilt didn't add much weight, and lets the car more easily accommodate different drivers and different driving positions. It was also "free". Well, technically it would be more accurate to say that ditching the factory power tilt/telescope may not remove much weight.

@ED9man when properly wrapped the cord does not end up loose, but rather is always tight and/or stretching around the column. Unless there are existing factory switches on the steering wheel itself, there are generally only two terminals -- to connect the horn switch. The early SC300 only had a horn, and other controls were either on the stalk (behind the wheel) or the dashboard itself.

More common in higher-end race cars is to use a small CAN board and a fancy connector embedded in the quick disconnect. These CAN assemblies feature the capability to drive segmented LED and other displays, and can support several switch inputs. This results in a small 4-terminal connection inside the steering wheel and no cord. In my particular case, I would end up needing to hack and/or decode the Racepak Smartwire CAN protocol (assuming it uses CAN) to even get to a point where I might be able to control circuits via CAN. The Haltech ECU also does not really support being controlled via CAN.

Factory race cars that include complicated integrated steering wheel controls do similar and more complicated things.

@supercharged111 Not sure what NASA SE does for ST. Worst case scenario I have a button that goes to the ECU and can control... something!

I have a good bit of track day experience and was a Formula D competitor from 2004-2006 (which doesn't really count, depending on opinion). I expect to have to spend at least a year on-track before going to NASA comp school.

The car is almost exclusively electronics, and the power:weight is within ST-2 class limits. Suspension will be next to be tackled in future articles, but right now it's just a basic coilover setup (Fortune Auto).
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