07

The large, mostly solid, outer tread blocks greatly help dry cornering by reducing squirm and increasing the contact patch in this highly loaded part of the tire. Like the Nitto NT05, the Invo features a solid center rib which helps straight-line stability and braking. The inner shoulder of the tread is nearly solid except for a few sipes which gives a large contact patch for better all-around grip. This also helps resist wear in cars that have a lot of negative camber. Although the inner blocks are pretty solid, siping is woven through the blocks to evacuate water while locking together under dry cornering loads to act like a solid tread block giving the best of both worlds - decent dry and wet grip. 
 

The Invo has a UTQG wear rating of 220 vs the 140 of the NT05 due to the longer wearing high silica tread compound. Silica helps grip in wet and cold conditions while a dry summer tire typically has more polymer and less silica in order to make it sticky in warm weather. This higher UTQG will translate into a long tread life on our heavy performance sedan. On the other end of the spectrum we have the NT555 G2 we had on our M5 previously which has a UTQG of 320. This means the Invo has a compound hardness somewhere in between the NT05 and the NT555 G2. 

 

For wheels, we selected the super strong and light weight Advan Racing GT forged wheel. These wheels are manufactured by Yokohama Wheels and are 4 staged forged. The first 3 stages form the wheel center and roughly form the barrel. The final stage is roll forming, which is a forging like process where the barrel is rotated over a fixed mandrel to form the final barrel dimensions. This is sort of like a potter's wheel for aluminum. This roll forming refines and improves the grain structure of the aluminum and gives a significant amount of strength to the wheel.

 

Thanks to the team over at Mackin Industries we were able to test fit and spec out the perfect fitment for our E39 M5. We chose the Yokohoma Advan Racing GT in 19x9 with a +20mm offset for the front and 19x10 with a +22mm offset for the rear. We chose the "Extra Deep" option for both front and rear wheels and they were also ordered with a Semi Gloss Black finish. These were the absolute largest wheels that could be stuffed into the M5's wheel wells. 

 

Thank you to our friends at our local America's Tire in Carson, CA. We send all of our tires over to them to get mounted. They have a lot of experience handling expensive wheels and have all the necessary equipment to ensure our tires are mounted correctly and without any damage.

 

The slender 5 spoke design looks great and really shows off our big StopTech Trophy brakes. Most importantly, they also allow for more cooling air to circulate around the brakes. An added benefit of the simple and open 5 spoke design, is that the wheels are extremely easy to keep clean. Much easier than the stock mesh wheels!

 

Before we could permanently mount our new wheel and tire package, we had to deal with a fitment issue unique to the E39. The center bore for E39 wheels must be 74mm. Unfortunately, the E39 is the only BMW, that is not an SUV, with such a large center bore requirement. This means wheel options are very limited since most BMWs have a 72.5mm hub diameter. 

 

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Comments
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Wednesday, February 07, 2018 9:54 AM
looks awesome!
SM_Clay72
SM_Clay72link
Wednesday, February 07, 2018 1:19 PM
Switching from bolts to studs was the best improvement I ever made to my BMW.
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Wednesday, February 07, 2018 1:48 PM
why? other than saving you maybe 13 seconds per wheels when mounting them I don't see the advantage, just disadvantages
sobe_death
sobe_deathlink
Wednesday, February 07, 2018 2:26 PM
In the future, to avoid boring expensive wheels and making it impossible to rotate them, you can just install hubs from an E60 that have the correct center diameter.
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Wednesday, February 07, 2018 3:02 PM
your boring is my clean, your exciting is my ugly rice bs... all in the eye of the beholder
Martin Gonzales
Martin Gonzaleslink
Wednesday, February 07, 2018 3:37 PM
warmmilk: I think sobe_death meant boring as in "boring out the wheels". hehe!

sobe_death: FYI, we couldn't rotate the wheels even if we would've used E60 hubs as our wheel choice has a staggered fitment...duh ;) Good to know about the E60 hubs though. Though I must say that honestly, I would've gone ahead and bored out the wheels anyways even if I would've know about the hubs. But to each his own. Thanks for reading!



SM_Clay72
SM_Clay72link
Thursday, February 08, 2018 9:19 AM
warmmilk is hyperdefensive. Perhaps even hotmilk or hot-n'salty-milk.

It is more than 13 seconds. More like 14 or even 15 on a cold day with semi numb fingers. If you are wearing gloves we are talking upwards of 20s of pure gains. Less chance of an accidental crossthread from a misaligned bolt. It makes a difference at the track though I doubt this car will never see one even though we like to talk about unsprung weight and such on this luxury GT.
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Thursday, February 08, 2018 10:26 AM
oh, haha, my bad...
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Friday, February 09, 2018 1:04 PM
ok, actually read the article this time instead of just looking at the pics... what am I missing? there's nothing in there about boring out the wheels, just spacers to account for the smaller bore of the wheels. wheel spacers seam like a better solution than swapping hubs to me.

@SM_Clay72
still curious why switching to studs is such a good idea?
andyb5
andyb5link
Friday, February 09, 2018 9:07 PM
@warmmilk - the front wheels have spacers, but the rear wheels had to be bored out. This is noted in the caption of the 2nd photo on page 4.

I personally think studs are easier to work with in lieu of bolts. First, it's easier to remove/install the wheel, and maintenance is made easier too. I've had a rusted lug bolt snap off in the hub - that's not a fun moment. If a rusted lug nut snaps the stud, you simply remove the stud and install a new one instead of having to extract a broken bolt from your bearing hub.
warmmilk
warmmilklink
Monday, February 12, 2018 10:47 AM
I guess I missed that... I agree with sobe on that then

but being threaded in rather than pressed in from the back like oem studs are, it adds another point of failure. it doesn't seam like a solid assembly. I'd rather deal with keeping my bolts clean personally...
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