Project V8 RX-7: More Oiling Insurance from Improved Racing, Accusump and Earl's (Part 2 of 2)

by Jeff Naeyaert

In Part 1 of our improvements to the Project V8 RX-7's oiling system last week we got an oil cooler, Ano-Tuff fittings and Pro-Lite 350 hose from Earl's and an oil thermostat from Improved Racing.  In Part 2 we'll finish it off by walking you through how we put it all together.

Assembling the Oil Lines

With the oil cooler, thermostat and Accusump mounted we're ready to start cutting hose!  We start with the longest line—from the Accusump behind the rear differential all the way to front of the car near the oil cooler.  If you recall the diagram we sketched of our system a couple pages ago we originally planned to put a T-fitting on the inlet side of our thermostat to make the Accusump oil supply line as short and direct to the engine as possible.  Unfortunately the fitting configuration to make that happen was too tall and would have interfered with the exhaust manifold.  Plan B is to put the T-fitting up front by the oil cooler.  We will also be installing a check valve on one leg of the "T".  In the event the Accusump is called to duty we want all the oil discharged to go towards the engine and bearings rather than backwards through the oil cooler and towards the oil pump.  

Earl's Pro-Lite 350 hose is very compliant so installing the Ano-Tuff fittings are really easy.  Without having to cut anything yet we installed our first 90-degree swivel fitting on the hose to connect to the Accusump.

Earl's -10AN Auto-Fit Ano-Tuff fittings The coupler on the end of the Accusump is a female 1/2-inch NPT so we used a 90-degree 1/2" NPT male to -10 AN hose fitting.  We picked the 90-degree bend to kick the hose up over the top of the differential so we could run the hose up along the top of the transmission tunnel--well clear of the ground or anything that may get kicked up by our sticky tires.
assembling earl's ano-tuff fittings on pro lite 350 hoseThe first step to assemble the hose end is to jam the hose into the back side of the socket part of the fitting leaving a small gap between the end of the threads and the end of the rubber coming through.  
earl's ano-tuff hose end assemblyWe lightly clamped the socket down in a vice, lubricated the hose end's male-threaded side and screwed it into the socket.  The process cuts the face of the rubber hose creating an exceptionally strong interference fit.  This was actually the only instance we ever used the vice.  Working with the Pro-Lite 350 hose was so easy we did the remaining fittings with two wrenches.  
The assembled hose end.  Notice the male end of the fitting isn't screwed down all the way down to the socket.  Over-tightening can distort the seal and cause a leak.
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Monday, November 30, 2015 3:23 AM
Excellent article... I'll probably use this solution from Accusump as well.
Monday, November 30, 2015 5:01 AM
would it not have been best to place the release valve and pressure sensor at the T section for a slight increase in response time?
Monday, November 30, 2015 8:56 AM
Geeze. 1.1 Qts in the lines alone. That's some Smokey Yunik level stuff right there.

Also, still the most impressive project by far. Still dreaming about finding that cheap FD with a blown engine.
Monday, November 30, 2015 3:31 PM

I would have put it elsewhere also to avoid having all of that weight hanging off a brass fitting on a solid mounted unit. Those stacks of fittings and valves get heavy when you are jumping curbs and dropping tires and Brass likes to crack with shock and vibration. I have seen a T that was used to mount 2 oil pressure senders fail that way at the track. Messy and potentially catastrophic. IMO mounting that valve setup to the chassis remotely from the accusump would have been the ideal. Time will tell.

At least its mounted behind all 4 of your tires, so you don't have to worry about an oil down if it pops!
Monday, November 30, 2015 3:47 PM
Man that's an expensive oil change! I'm kind of with Clay, but I'm thinking the front might be OK because the lines are flexible. If the whole assembly wiggles around that's fine because it won't fatigue a rubber line that it's attached to. How do you plan to drain all the oil that's not in the pan? I'm curious for my own sake. I run an oil cooler in my Z06 and always suspect I'm leaving a quart or so of old oil in there every time.
Monday, November 30, 2015 4:27 PM
So what does the oil change procedure look like now? Won't there be a ton of totally nuked oil trapped in the lines/ accusump/ cooler? Even after draining the accusump, I would think that you'd still have 2+qts left in the system? And then do yo uhave to bleed the whole system out again after draining the accusump?
Monday, November 30, 2015 10:15 PM
Nice work on the ducting and protective shield for the accusump.

@supercharged, on Project S2000, whatever oil I have in the oil cooler just stays there during an oil change. My oil cooler setup added about one extra quart to the system making for a total of 6 quarts. I only change what's in the pan, so 5 quarts at a time.

My 2005 Evo had a factory oil cooler and I'm sure the oil that was in it just stayed. So I'd guess the same with your Z06.
Monday, November 30, 2015 10:21 PM
did not think of fitting weight becoming a problem good thing to know

I doubt there will be any real difference in response time because oil does not compress was just wondering why you did it that way
Jeff Naeyaert
Jeff Naeyaertlink
Monday, November 30, 2015 11:44 PM
honestly I didn't really think of remotely mounting the switch/valve.. I'm not worried at all about the thick brass pipe fittings cracking that are mounted into the Accusump. I would be more worried about the 3 additional fittings I woulda had to buy to remotely mount it leaking or failing. Reduced complexity and cost. I can't wrap my head around whether it would be easier or harder to bleed all the air out of the system with it remotely mounted like that either.

@vehicular, like Sean & I mentioned in the first article's comments: flip the switch to open the valve. charge the Accusump canister with 100psi of pressure (via the schrader valve) to force out as much oil as possible before draining. Fill up the pan and drain. Yes, there will be some old oil in the lines/cooler. I probably won't be too anal about draining every last drop unless i blow up the motor.
Wednesday, December 02, 2015 9:11 PM
I'm intending on doing something similar, but have concerns around the check valve being a restriction to normal flow. Do you have any comments on this or advice on its sizing?
Jeff Naeyaert
Jeff Naeyaertlink
Thursday, December 03, 2015 12:42 PM
that's a good question, and no.. don't really have any data yet to do anything other than speculate. We will need to keep an eye on the difference in oil pressures when the oil is cold and hot when the thermostat opens. If there's a significant drop in pressure when that happens we'll have to investigate, but that is a legitimate concern.
Monday, March 28, 2016 11:18 AM
Jeff Naeyaert, I have looked every where for the article you did Project MKVI Golf TDI: Let's Tow! What happened to it and can you give me a link to it. Thanks

Jeff Naeyaert
Jeff Naeyaertlink
Monday, March 28, 2016 12:01 PM
ha! sorry.. those articles are all back up now!
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