22

Project S2000: Part 22 – Testing New Goods and More Intake Mods

by Khiem Dinh

Khiem Dinh is an engineer for Honeywell Turbo Technologies at the time of this writing.  All statements and opinions expressed by Khiem Dinh are solely those of Khiem Dinh and not reflective of Honeywell Turbo Technologies.

The high lateral G’s enabled by the sticky Nitto NT01 tires did a number on the stock control arm bushings which spurred the decision to go with the Blacktrax Performance/Kingpin Machine spherical bearing suspension setup. Hasport rear differential mounts were installed at the same time to reduce movement between drivetrain parts and the chassis. Buttonwillow is the perfect track to test out the new suspension goods as using the curbing is essential to running quick lap times. Previously, I was hesitant to use the curbing excessively as it would upset the chassis. This was especially evident in the esses with the tall curbing. In the 13CW configuration, the last curb of the esses on the left is taken at high speed and leads onto a short straight; so maximizing speed here is very important. However, before any track day, preparation is required. Plus, I’d run into a new issue while testing the ram air NACA duct at Autoclub that required further investigation.

 
Fresh Motul 300V oil goes into Project S2k with an OEM Honda oil filter. It had been about a year and a half since I last tracked the car, so fresh Motul RBF600 brake fluid was put in as there’s nothing more dangerous than losing your brakes at the track; squishy brakes suck, fresh fluid = good. To make the brake fluid job easier, I picked up this Motion Pro brake bleeder (part number 08-0143).
Just a little tip while changing the oil, I like to jack up the rear (using the differential as the jack point) to level out the car and get that last bit of oil out of the pan.
The Motion Pro brake bleeder is a simple one-way check valve. Just put it on, open the bleeder valve, and pump away on the brake pedal. Another little tip, I poke two holes in the brake fluid seal; one hole to pour out from, the other to vent. You know, it’s like shot gunning a beer can, you need the vent hole.
The rear StopTech brake pads finally wore down to a thickness of around 3mm so I replaced them for safety. The rear pads wore at a rate twice that of the fronts. The massive StopTech big brake kit on the front paired with my brake ducts are proving to last an exceptionally long time. They are only half worn after all the track days and street driving I’ve put on them. Yes, they are the same StopTech street performance pads originally installed when I put on the brakes. So, maybe I’ll get around to doing some rear brake ducts to help those pads last longer.
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Comments
ginsu
ginsulink
Friday, January 23, 2015 4:02 AM
FYI, a little trick I learned from Spoon's Ichishima-san is to wrap your oil filter with a couple of steel hose clamps to keep the thin-walls of the oil filter from expanding/contracting under high oil-pressure. He specifically recommended this for high-revving Honda engines, it was in a Best Motoring episode.

I also put some small neodymium magnets from old hard drives on the oil filter as well to trap magnetic particles in the filter. You can then permanently remove them from circulation when you replace the filter.
8695Beaters
8695Beaterslink
Friday, January 23, 2015 5:20 AM
Khiem, since you've proven your vacuum plug works, how about you fill your hose barb with RTV instead of shop towels and tape? You don't want to accidentally suck either of those into your engine... You could also just remove the vacuum line and plug the fitting. I did this on my 240SX after a turbo swap caused oil to get sucked into my intake and burn under throttle. Solved my problem!

Now onto the big question...who was faster, Project S2000 or Project EF Civic?
Dusty Duster
Dusty Dusterlink
Friday, January 23, 2015 5:25 AM
Khiem-

To protect your rod ends, clean them up and then spray them with a high-quality motorcycle chain lubricant. Those lubricants turn "waxy" after they dry and protect your rod ends from dirt and moisture. I reapply the lubricant every time I change the oil or swap the tires.
Clint Boisdeau
Clint Boisdeaulink
Friday, January 23, 2015 6:45 AM
Hey Khiem, Where is the video from where I passed you :P
cbgoding
cbgodinglink
Friday, January 23, 2015 6:55 AM
Why not use a check valve instead of blocking it? I assume it's only supposed to flow one way, and the ram intake is causing a reversal. My turbo project car uses a check valve on the PCV for that reason.

Then again, the PCV barely works anyways and my intake is always full of oil, so take that as you will.
rawkus
rawkuslink
Friday, January 23, 2015 7:24 AM
We need lap times!
nissannx
nissannxlink
Friday, January 23, 2015 9:50 AM
Did you like the brake bleeder? That looks like a simple unit - does it work well?
Rockwood
Rockwoodlink
Friday, January 23, 2015 12:27 PM
Brakes sound funny... :)
spdracerut
spdracerutlink
Friday, January 23, 2015 3:41 PM
Beaters, I only use the plug with the track hood installed. Otherwise, back to open for normal operation of the pcv system.

Clint in project Ef went just under 2 flat. I was doing around 2:08 or so not pushing hard in the s2k. The car is probably good for around 2 flat if pushed. I just don't like pushing limits without proper safety equipment and the fact I also drive to the track. I've only ever gone off track once and that was the one time I did push it.

Frank, the bleeder works will enough, though maybe requires some getting use to on how fast to push on the pedal. I think it left a tiny bit of air in the system.
Vince, I had thought about using some motorcycle chain lube. I have plenty of it.
theneil
theneillink
Sunday, January 25, 2015 8:49 PM
mity-vac makes a really nice hand vacuum pump type bleeder that works great for about 40 bucks
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