E36 M3 rear sway bar end links Hotchkis
It turns out that the bushings in the original end links were looking pretty ragged, so the Hotchkis-supplied adjustable rear end links with heavy duty ball joints and rod ends were a good thing. Plus, more grease fittings for future noise-free happiness.
E36 M3 Hotchkis rear sway bar end links
Here’s another look at the Hotchkis adjustable end links. Yes, it should be the quality part itself that I’m most happy about, but I can’t help but have a smile when I see those grease fittings. Not likely that I’ll need to re-grease them any time soon, but it’s still nice to know that I won’t have to remove anything to do it when the time comes.
E36 M3 rear sway bar tab
Just as with the front, always to check all mounting points are in good condition, and that seems particularly true with 3-series BMWs. Sway bar mounts and the subframe are known to have issues over time, so the occasional inspection can save a lot of headaches. 

It’s always a good idea to do some sort of reinforcement with the rear sway bar tabs when upgrading these parts. It’s one of those items that you can almost bank on when, not if, they’ll crack or tear off, especially with hard usage on track. Reinforcements can be fabricated if you’re handy with that sort of thing, or you can get great weld-in kits from BimmerWorld. Even easier than that, however…


E36 M3 Hotckis rear sway bar reinforcement
The Hotchkis rear sway bars come with something I’ve never seen with sway bars before: bolt-in reinforcement brackets! No prep time and no need to take your car to someone with welding experience. I’ve been not-so-secretly wanting to take up welding, but this kit saved me from making that investment. Plus, lighting up a torch near the gas tank was less than appealing. These were very simple to install, but they appear to be thought out rather well. 
E36 M3 Hotchkis rear sway bar end link installed
Once everything is prepped up for installing, the new end links get attached first. The one thing to be sure of during this process is to have the grease fittings pointing in the appropriate direction for access. Otherwise, you’ll find them to be somewhat pointless on these, a bit of attention will save you from making that mistake.
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Wednesday, January 07, 2015 4:36 PM
I've yet to have the pleasure of having the need to roll my fenders, so excuse my ignorance: doesn't having the suspension in droop (relative to where the hub is while at static ride height) affect the fender rolling? If the center of the "circle" that is used to roll the fenders is lower than the center of the wheel (relative to the body) won't the roll itself be more oblong when compared to the tire? I think that the suspension should be compressed to at least static ride height, if not compressed, to give a rolled fender that is going to be better spaced from the tire more so than just at the top.

I don't mean to detract from the work done to this car, because it looks good. I'm just curious of the method, since I assume that this is the same method that most use when performing this modification.
Wednesday, January 07, 2015 4:59 PM
That would likely be true if attempting to flare the fenders, or if the lip were bigger than it is. The part of the fender lip needing to be rolled, however, is probably 1/2" tall - though I'd have to go out and measure to be exact. It's not high at all, though, and the roller might end up too high to even reach the lip at what would be static height.
Wednesday, January 07, 2015 5:11 PM
So what is the difference between flaring and rolling? I am familiar with a fender flare that is added to the body, but what does it mean to flare the existing panel? Is it just a matter of the how much material is moved: a small change being considered rolling and a large change being considered flaring? Also, is it a matter of how far out from the body the material is moved, or is it more about how far up the panel from the lip itself the "bend" starts?
Wednesday, January 07, 2015 5:18 PM
I'd generally consider flaring the fender to mean that it's actually moved further out from the body than it would be in its unaltered state. The fender itself doesn't need to be moved in order to fit *slightly* wider tires for the E36, so the small lip that can sometimes cause rubbing can be rolled so that it's flush with the body panel.
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